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Routes in West Face

Calm Before The Storm TR 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Curse of Consiousness S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dirty-Kure S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Don't You Like It T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flesh Gordon S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gordon Of Eden S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hagakure S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Law-son S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Oedipus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Original Sin T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Taboo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Top of the World, Ma! T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 130 ft
FA: Paul Fritze & Paul Humphrey
Page Views: 83 total · 7/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Lurker, Rick Shull, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Ultra-classic route that is excellent, every move from the ground to the top. Steep climbing past three bolts leads to technical slab perfection. The first crux involves a delicate traverse right to a no-hands rest. The second crux comes a 10 feet later as you zig-zag back to the left on a molar-sized crimp and poor feet. The climb continues up the very blunted arete and on to a steep headwall with big, but tough to identify holds. (clip bolts long to reduce drag).

This route is an absolute classic, and is pretty crazy it had been forgotten for so long. Huge thanks to the Sic Nabo for breathing life back into this epic climb and inspiring us to get on it!!

Location

Look for the bolt streaks up the center of the wall, just left of the huge hueco.

Protection

16 bolts (4-5 slings).

Photos

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Sic Nabo
  5.12c/d
Sic Nabo  
  5.12c/d
I'd use a long runner for the third bolt (just below the lip of the slab). Would be nice to extend some of the zig-zaggy bolts on the slab too, but it'd make the prospect of falling even scarier than it already is. This thing could use another bolt or two, honestly, but I guess 16 is already a ton!

You can just BARELY lower off this climb with a 70 meter rope. I had my belayer lower me as far as they could, then untie the stopper knot and lower me through their belay device as I held on to that end of the rope. This allowed me to lower myself by hand the last couple of feet. Oct 10, 2017

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