Type: Sport, 130 ft
FA: Paul Fritze & Paul Humphrey
Page Views: 93 total · 7/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Lurker, Rick Shull, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Ultra-classic route that is excellent, every move from the ground to the top. Steep climbing past three bolts leads to technical slab perfection. The first crux involves a delicate traverse right to a no-hands rest. The second crux comes a 10 feet later as you zig-zag back to the left on a molar-sized crimp and poor feet. The climb continues up the very blunted arete and on to a steep headwall with big, but tough to identify holds. (clip bolts long to reduce drag).

This route is an absolute classic, and is pretty crazy it had been forgotten for so long. Huge thanks to the Sic Nabo for breathing life back into this epic climb and inspiring us to get on it!!


Look for the bolt streaks up the center of the wall, just left of the huge hueco.


16 bolts (4-5 slings).


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Sic Nabo
Sic Nabo  
I'd use a long runner for the third bolt (just below the lip of the slab). Would be nice to extend some of the zig-zaggy bolts on the slab too, but it'd make the prospect of falling even scarier than it already is. This thing could use another bolt or two, honestly, but I guess 16 is already a ton!

You can just BARELY lower off this climb with a 70 meter rope. I had my belayer lower me as far as they could, then untie the stopper knot and lower me through their belay device as I held on to that end of the rope. This allowed me to lower myself by hand the last couple of feet. Oct 10, 2017