Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 249 total · 16/month
Shared By: Nick Wilder on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Trestle and CMC areas are off limits. Details

Description

Traverse in from the left on a perfect handrail about 8 feet off the ground. Establish yourself at the base of the crack using a good undercling, place a solid piece or pro (or two), and crank up the overhang with poor feet.
Just over the crux of Slanted Hands.

Once you have your feet in the crack, continue up excellent jams for hands and fingers and perhaps throw in a layback or two. The climbing eases, but the initial overhang gets you pumped.

The top section is easier - perhaps 5.9 - but the rock quality is lower.

Location

On the left half of this formation, find the large chimney that you can imagine grunting your way up. Start at the base of this chimney, then work out right to the crack on the right side of the right flake that makes the chimney.

Protection

Standard rack. Save a few small cams for the top. A #1 Camalot protects the low crux perfectly.

Photos

Daniel Birdwell
Eagle, CO
 
Daniel Birdwell   Eagle, CO
 
The rock quality is good for the crux roof move and for a body length or so after that, but the start and upper section has very poor quality rock. There were some options for protection, but the climbing itself after the crux was pretty sandy and questionable. A good route if you are feeling adventurous, I think it could be great if it got a serious scrub. Also needs some new tat for the anchor. Sep 13, 2018