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Routes in Blowjob Rock

Deepthroat T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Direct South Chimney T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Northeast Face T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Derek Field & Garth Schultz (Oct 2017)
Page Views: 118 total, 54/month
Shared By: Derek Field on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

This deep cleft offers another adventurous passage to the top of Blowjob Rock via its north aspect. Similar in character and style to the Northeast Face route (i.e. chimney stuff), but easier and more straightforward. Not for the claustrophobic, nor for those offended by choss.

Pitch 1: Mosey up a grungy dark-red gully and make an awkward mud mantel (place that 5" or 6" cam here!) to reach the next ledge. Move up into the next squeeze chimney, which thankfully has much better rock quality and some fun moves at the top. Finally you'll shimmy up yet another cavernous squeeze chimney - this is the north edge (analogue crack, so to speak) of the deep cleft that forms the 3rd pitch of the Northeast Face route. The belay from the top of the pillar takes all sizes of gear. (5.7+, 150 feet)

Pitch 2: Joins the Northeast Face route for the summit block hop. Climb the final Coconino headwall via a series of blocky handcracks. (5.7+, 50 feet)

Descent: Two-bolt chain anchor located on a bench on the north side of the tower, about 25 feet below the summit. Second rappel from slung tree (new cordalette as of 10/2017) deposits you at base of route.

Location

Deepthroat is the next chimney to the right of the Northeast Face system. Instead of trying to whack straight up to the base of the spire, you'll want to get on top of the ledge system a few hundred yards to the right (north), then traverse the ledge to the base.

Because the starting ledge also serves as the base of the second rappel, this route can be done pretty quickly "on the way down" from the Northeast Face route.

Protection

Single rack to 5"
6" piece useful
Be warned that the majority of this route travels chimneys with sparse pro. The age-old question: do squeeze chimneys count as runouts? You decide!

Photos

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