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Routes in Blowjob Rock

Deepthroat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Direct South Chimney T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Northeast Face (Original Route) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southeast Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Derek Field & Garth Schultz (Oct 2017)
Page Views: 278 total · 21/month
Shared By: Derek Field on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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Description

This deep cleft offers another adventurous passage to the top of Blowjob Rock via its north aspect. Similar in character and style to the Original Route (i.e. chimney stuff), but decidedly easier and more straightforward. From a distance, it may be misidentified as the Original Route because it appears to be the more obvious line of weakness. And it is. Although technically simple, this route is not for the claustrophobic, nor for those offended by choss.

Pitch 1: From the starting ledge, mosey up a grungy dark-red gully and make an awkward mud mantel (place that 5" or 6" cam here!) to reach the next ledge. Move up through the next chimney section, which thankfully has much better rock quality and some fun moves at the top. Finally you'll shimmy up yet another cavernous chimney - this is the north edge (analogue crack, so to speak) of the deep cleft that forms the 3rd pitch of the Northeast Face route. The belay from the top of the pillar takes all sizes of gear. (5.7+, 150 feet)

Pitch 2: Joins the Northeast Face route for the summit block hop. Climb the final Coconino headwall via a series of blocky handcracks. (5.8, 50 feet)

Descent: Two-bolt chain anchor located on a bench on the north side of the tower, about 25 feet below the summit. Second rappel from slung tree (new cordalette as of 10/2017) deposits you at base of route.

Location

Deepthroat is the big diagonal chimney just right of the Original Route system. It is the most obvious line on the north face. Instead of trying to whack straight up to the base of the spire, you'll want to get on top of the ledge system a few hundred yards to the right (north), then traverse the ledge to the base.

Because the starting ledge also serves as the base of the second rappel, this route can be done pretty quickly "on the way down" from the Northeast Face route.

Protection

Single rack to 5"
6" piece useful
Be warned that the majority of this route travels chimneys with sparse pro. The age-old question: do squeeze chimneys count as runouts? You decide!

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