The guidebook says "Porter Jarrard had a way of picking the plums, and this one stays true to form."

Easy climbing leads to a hard move on thin holds to gain the jug over the first short roof. Gain the face, cop a rest, and then fire a big move to the jugs atop the next roof. Another few moves on smaller holds gets you a final rest before the heartbreaker crux on tiny crimps.

Edit: Almost two years later and this remains one of the best routes I've climbed in the Canyon. Feels hard at 12d. This should be a high priority on your list if you haven't climbed it. - AJS

Head past the small cave after the 11's on Grey wall over some scree until the wall ends and you'd be forced to make a hard left. This is the last line on the wall before it turns a hard left around a corner. It's underneath the overlook, so watch out for people throwing trash and rocks down.

8 bolts + 2 anchors with leavers. A long draw on bolts 3 and 6 makes clipping them easier. There is a carabiner on bolt 4 to help with cleaning and avoid taking the swing into the trees.