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Routes in Organ Pipes Tower

Pipe Cleaner, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
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Type: Trad, Aid, 125 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Trevor Bowman, Roy Suggett, Emily Reinsel 10/1/17
Page Views: 262 total · 21/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Of the several possible routes on this shapely tower, we felt this one offered the best option to minimize drilling and avoid nailing. It proved to be as we had hoped, and provided a fine outing with a mix of straightforward aid on soft rock and fun free climbing on the better upper band. The star rating was given relative to the greater Grand Staircase area; although fun, this certainly ain't no Castle Valley classic. However, for those accustomed to soft rock and who don't mind a little time in etriers, it is well worthwhile.

P1--Start by stick-clipping or with a shoulder stand (how it got drilled, with difficulty) to a drilled angle that unfortunately wouldn't hammer in to the eye, but is quite solidly seated in its hole. Reach left to the splitter crack system, which starts thin; a couple decent med/large stoppers can get you through the thinnest section without having to rely on tiny cams in the soft rock. Continue up undulating fingers/fat fingers until the crack pinches down to a seam. Transition right past another drilled angle, some gear placements in large hollow flakes (seem well attached) and a bolt into the better, brown rock layer and the hanging dihedral system that dominates the southwest face of the Pipes. A short section of stembox, with a fist crack on the left and a thin crack on the right leads past some blocks to a small stance and 2 bolt anchor. Most of the pitch takes finger-thin hand sized gear except the final stretch, in which everything from a #4 to .00 mastercam were used. 75', C2

P2-- Lower angled off-width with face features ends with a steeper OW bit to the top of a pillar. Proceed through a bugling section of thin hands that is relatively moderate thanks to chunky face features. Finish through the bizzare, cobble-studded conglomerate cap rock to the awesome summit. Ditch the wide cams down low, and otherwise only bring a couple #.75 and #1s and maybe a #.5 for this pitch. 50', 5.9

Location

The obvious hanging dihedral (left facing) on the southwest face. Look for a drilled angle about 10' up.

Protection

2 drilled angles, 1 bolt
a few med/large stoppers
(1X) gray through blue Mastercams or equivalent (four lobed pieces nice on the soft rock!)
(1X).3
(3X).4
(4X).5
(2X).75-#3
(1X)#4
(2X)#5,#6
All above units listed in BD C4 sizes.

With a single 70m rope you can rap from the summit anchors and hit the ground just barely with rope stretch. If using a 60m rope, use the anchors atop P1. Bring replacement tat for the top anchors.
Roy Suggett
  5.9 C2 PG13
Roy Suggett  
  5.9 C2 PG13
A good line which took a considerable amount of work and skill. Oct 5, 2017
Paul S
Fruita, CO
 
Paul S   Fruita, CO
 
We did this the other week and while on top a large rock fall happened around the corner. We could feel the tower vibrate from it. Pretty scary! Nov 28, 2017
Roy Suggett
  5.9 C2 PG13
Roy Suggett  
  5.9 C2 PG13
Nice to hear you were in the area Paul. Do anything else? For giggles and to reference your comment, see:
mountainproject.com/photo/1… Nov 30, 2017
Paul S
Fruita, CO
 
Paul S   Fruita, CO
 
We did Altar Boy as well and just did some exploring in the area. Really unique layout of the land there. We enjoyed your guys' routes! Dec 21, 2017

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