Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 125 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Trevor Bowman, Roy Suggett, Emily Reinsel 10/1/17|
|Page Views:||425 total · 16/month|
|Shared By:||Trevor Bowman on Nov 7, 2017|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
P1--Start by stick-clipping or with a shoulder stand (how it got drilled, with difficulty) to a drilled angle that unfortunately wouldn't hammer in to the eye, but is quite solidly seated in its hole. Reach left to the splitter crack system, which starts thin; a couple decent med/large stoppers can get you through the thinnest section without having to rely on tiny cams in the soft rock. Continue up undulating fingers/fat fingers until the crack pinches down to a seam. Transition right past another drilled angle, some gear placements in large hollow flakes (seem well attached) and a bolt into the better, brown rock layer and the hanging dihedral system that dominates the southwest face of the Pipes. A short section of stembox, with a fist crack on the left and a thin crack on the right leads past some blocks to a small stance and 2 bolt anchor. Most of the pitch takes finger-thin hand sized gear except the final stretch, in which everything from a #4 to .00 mastercam were used. 75', C2
P2-- Lower angled off-width with face features ends with a steeper OW bit to the top of a pillar. Proceed through a bugling section of thin hands that is relatively moderate thanks to chunky face features. Finish through the bizzare, cobble-studded conglomerate cap rock to the awesome summit. Ditch the wide cams down low, and otherwise only bring a couple #.75 and #1s and maybe a #.5 for this pitch. 50', 5.9
a few med/large stoppers
(1X) gray through blue Mastercams or equivalent (four lobed pieces nice on the soft rock!)
All above units listed in BD C4 sizes.
With a single 70m rope you can rap from the summit anchors and hit the ground just barely with rope stretch. If using a 60m rope, use the anchors atop P1. Bring replacement tat for the top anchors.