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Gatekeeper

V7, Boulder, 12 ft (4 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 8 votes
FA: Brendan Baars
Illinois > Holy Boulders &… > Holy Boulders > A: Open Gates Boulder

Description

Sit-start to Open Gates. Starts in the hueco down and right. Getting of the ground is the crux. Lift off the ground using mental fortitude that your bicep doesn't burst and fall into a slopey crimp. Get a heel toe cam in the hueco and reach up for a weird 2-3 finger sideways pocket. lock that off to the crimp on open gates, busting left to the pinch and throw to the finish.

I've searched for a first ascentionist to what I thought was an obvious problem. The only thing i have found is that Luke Parady may have done this problem many many years ago but the person was unsure. So if anyone knows, I'm all ears!

Location

Hueco start under roof. Sit Start

Protection

1-2 pads

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brendan Baars
Grand Rapids, MI
  V9
Blair Bowden
Indianapolis, IN
  V8
[Hide Comment] Be careful. That flake is going to break off at some point. Mar 8, 2021