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Routes in Orange Wall

Clockwork Orange S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gator S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Green Tangerine S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Karnage S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sunkist S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Tim Nelson
Page Views: 212 total · 18/month
Shared By: Tavish Hansen on Nov 7, 2017 with updates from Michael Pepera
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Lower Main Wall/East Buttress Trails Re-opened Details

Description

This short but sweet route starts up a vertical face beneath the steep bulge in the center of the Orange Wall. Rest up when you get to the ledge, then blast through 20 feet of power endurance climbing on incut, glacier polished holds. The top is a bit contrived since there are jugs nearly within arms length on both sides, but it's more fun if you stay centered on the bolt line. The onsight crux is finding the chalkless crimps over the bulge.

Protection

5 bolts, permadraws on top. It is easy to climb Sun Kissed and step right to the Karnage anchor to set up a toprope.

Location

Karnage is the route in between Sunkist and Green Tangerine.

Photos

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Michael Pepera
Bellingham
  5.11d
Michael Pepera   Bellingham
  5.11d
The hangar is loose on the 4th bolt. I didn't have a wrench with me to tighten it down. The nut can easily be spun by hand. The Mount Erie Guidebook (Rockin' on the Rock) lists this route as 5.11d and includes an interview with the First Ascensionist. I think Jeff Smoot's guide lists it at 5.11c, which is where the original submitter most likely got the rating. It seems like the Mt Erie guide would be more authoritative. It also feels solid at the grade. Apr 27, 2018
wakaranai
Mount Vernon, WA
wakaranai   Mount Vernon, WA
Solid at the grade, bolt for the crux is way out of place IMO. Good climb despite May 25, 2018

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