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Routes in North East Area

Alluring Fire TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dragon Jaws TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: TR, 70 ft
FA: John Kelbel - let me know if I'm not the first.
Page Views: 51 total · 6/month
Shared By: John Kelbel on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Description [Suggest Change]

Rapid oxygenation might be needed to sustain the burn up this beautiful steep face. Start on the right side of the tree growing out of the base of the wall. Follow a short broken crack/flake into a clean face about 25 feet. When handholds run thin head right then back left again. Aim for the 2-foot wide overhanging block and figure out how to surmount it; there are at least two options here and either option will be the crux of the climb. Note there are some loose rocks below and one above the overhang. Catch a breath of Air and head to the top moving up and then slightly left.

Location [Suggest Change]

Center of the North East Area on approximately a 20 foot wide left facing wall,
Topo Alluring Fire Line .

Protection [Suggest Change]

With such an overhanging top-rope route I suggest setting up by first rappelling a single line and adding two fixed cams above the 2-foot wide overhanging block. Rappelling also helps with getting the rope to be on the right side of the tree. The next step is to untie the single line at the top, clip it into a top system, and toss it to the other side of the tree so the belayer is not standing under the climber in the rockfall zone.
A number 3 Camalot is useful in a horizontal crack about 12ft below the lip. on the right side of the 2-foot wide overhanging block is a thin vertical crack and a 0 TCU fits tightly in. Even with the gear in place a fall off the beginning will result in a swing into the tree.

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