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Routes in Cannibal Corridor

Cannabinoid S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A0
Cannibal's Delight S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Get Over It S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Upper Cannibal Left T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Upper Cannibal Middle T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, Aid, 80 ft
FA: Dave Bingham 2017
Page Views: 117 total · 20/month
Shared By: Boissal on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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The biggest sandbag!

This line shows up in the latest COR guidebook as an undone 5.10 going up an interesting arĂȘte with a bolting permit pending.
It is now equipped and the description of a rough start leading to easier climbing certainly holds true.

Expect burly moves on small sloping crimps up a blunt prow to get to the 2nd bolt. Without feet. And super rough stone. Oh, did I mention it overhangs a bit too?
Things ease up considerably once you get established above the crux with 10- patina climbing to the top of the pillar. This is followed by mellow padding up a slab until things steepen up a bit, forcing you to surf the side of a large hole, traverse along a thin crack, and pull some interesting steep moves on blobby holds before reaching the anchor (the lower bolt is already a spinner).

If you ran into the opening sequence in the middle of any route it would be rated 5.12. However, since the first 15' are typically excluded from the ratings at the City we'll still call that one 5.10- (with an A0 winch past the crux).

Where's this thing?

The route is located on the far end of the main Cannibal wall, right before the face breaks into the smaller formation which houses older shorter lines. Look for a blunt arete and much more closely spaced bolts that you're used to at the City.

What do I need to avoid a gruesome demise?

8 or 9 bolts to chain anchors.
Bring your best bouldering spotter if you want to send the start.
Alternatively, bring a stick clip. Or a winch. Or you could use a donkey to pull you up to the first bolt for extra style points.


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Yes, the bottom of this route is perhaps best done by stick-clipping and yarding up to the first decent crimp. Otherwise it's a narsty 5.12 boulder problem with bad feet. You probably can leave the donkey at home though. Overall, a fun route(except for the bottom 10 feet) in a slightly out-of-the-way location. Oct 2, 2017
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Ogden, Utah
user id   Ogden, Utah
A V5 boulder problem leads to a 10- route. Boulder the blunt arete to the first bolt, then say "climbing" Oct 3, 2017

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