Type: Sport, Aid, 80 ft
FA: Dave Bingham 2017
Page Views: 207 total · 14/month
Shared By: Boissal . on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route

5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick

The biggest sandbag!

This line shows up in the latest COR guidebook as an undone 5.10 going up an interesting arête with a bolting permit pending.
It is now equipped and the description of a rough start leading to easier climbing certainly holds true.

Expect burly moves on small sloping crimps up a blunt prow to get to the 2nd bolt. Without feet. And super rough stone. Oh, did I mention it overhangs a bit too?
Things ease up considerably once you get established above the crux with 10- patina climbing to the top of the pillar. This is followed by mellow padding up a slab until things steepen up a bit, forcing you to surf the side of a large hole, traverse along a thin crack, and pull some interesting steep moves on blobby holds before reaching the anchor (the lower bolt is already a spinner).

If you ran into the opening sequence in the middle of any route it would be rated 5.12. However, since the first 15' are typically excluded from the ratings at the City we'll still call that one 5.10- (with an A0 winch past the crux).

Where's this thing?

The route is located on the far end of the main Cannibal wall, right before the face breaks into the smaller formation which houses older shorter lines. Look for a blunt arete and much more closely spaced bolts that you're used to at the City.

What do I need to avoid a gruesome demise?

8 or 9 bolts to chain anchors.
Bring your best bouldering spotter if you want to send the start.
Alternatively, bring a stick clip. Or a winch. Or you could use a donkey to pull you up to the first bolt for extra style points.


- No Photos -
Yes, the bottom of this route is perhaps best done by stick-clipping and yarding up to the first decent crimp. Otherwise it's a narsty 5.12 boulder problem with bad feet. You probably can leave the donkey at home though. Overall, a fun route(except for the bottom 10 feet) in a slightly out-of-the-way location. Oct 2, 2017
user id
user id   SMOGden, UT
A V5 boulder problem leads to a 10- route. Boulder the blunt arete to the first bolt, then say "climbing" Oct 3, 2017
Shane Martin Smith
United States
  5.11+ C0
Shane Martin Smith   United States
  5.11+ C0
The starting moves to this route are what make this route worth doing in the first place. The V5 boulder problem is excellent and if the first 15’ of the routes are excluded? Then that means that a lot of routes in the City aren’t actually the appropriate grade that they are listed at. Personally, I’d grade this route 11+ until further consensus and climb the route from ground to top like anyone should on any route anywhere. Aug 30, 2018
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
  5.10- A0
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
  5.10- A0
It's not uncommon to exclude the first few moves of a route from the rating at the City. There's a whole wall which works that way...
What makes the route worth doing is the 70' of consistent moderate pulling on good rock, not the skin-shredding boulder problem at the start. If you can pull that off you're going to be bored out of your mind once you're past the 2nd bolt... And if you rate it V5 the route is going to settle a bit above 11+, nasty V5 = mid 5.12.
Regardless, the mayor of the City and FA of the route tells us it's best done by winching past the start. Maybe you should lecture him about how routes should be climbed: from the ground to the top. Bet nobody's ever thought of that. Fucking rules... Aug 30, 2018