Avg: 1 from 1 vote
|Type:||Sport, Aid, 80 ft|
|FA:||Dave Bingham 2017|
|Page Views:||117 total · 20/month|
|Shared By:||Boissal on Nov 7, 2017|
|Admins:||grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle|
The biggest sandbag!This line shows up in the latest COR guidebook as an undone 5.10 going up an interesting arête with a bolting permit pending.
It is now equipped and the description of a rough start leading to easier climbing certainly holds true.
Expect burly moves on small sloping crimps up a blunt prow to get to the 2nd bolt. Without feet. And super rough stone. Oh, did I mention it overhangs a bit too?
Things ease up considerably once you get established above the crux with 10- patina climbing to the top of the pillar. This is followed by mellow padding up a slab until things steepen up a bit, forcing you to surf the side of a large hole, traverse along a thin crack, and pull some interesting steep moves on blobby holds before reaching the anchor (the lower bolt is already a spinner).
If you ran into the opening sequence in the middle of any route it would be rated 5.12. However, since the first 15' are typically excluded from the ratings at the City we'll still call that one 5.10- (with an A0 winch past the crux).
Where's this thing?The route is located on the far end of the main Cannibal wall, right before the face breaks into the smaller formation which houses older shorter lines. Look for a blunt arete and much more closely spaced bolts that you're used to at the City.
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