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Routes in Dardanelle Rock

7, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Annihilated S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Antichrist S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Antichrist Superstar S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Beach Boulder 1 V2+ 5+
D.A.R.E (Dardanelle Aid Route) S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Finger-Blaster V0-1 4+
Gateway Drug S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Moneyshot S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Orange Kush S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rebel Yell S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Smoke Ice S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stark Naked S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Whoa nelly S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: Jonathan Williams
Page Views: 136 total · 20/month
Shared By: Tal Swicegood on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: TylerKC

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Description

The start is a stand-start hand match on obvious chalked holds about 7ft high in the middle of the rock. This route is a traverse to the left most side without a "top out". The finish is about 5-6 ft below the top of the rock, with an obvious outlet to stand on. If you want to add to the difficulty a little bit, you can do a sit start below the aforementioned starting holds and it would easily enter into v2-3 territory.

The holds near the end of the problem tend to get a bit more chossy, so DO NOT rely on anything small. Be smart and have a good spotting team at the ready.

This problem was established with the combined effort of Jonathan Williams (FA), Spencer Maske, and myself.

Shoutout to Motown USA.

Location

If you continue past Easy Tiger (The 7) 5.7 route you will eventually find a "path" that heads out to the left. There is a v4 that many locals know as Pistol Arrow that isn't yet posted on MP or in any guidebooks afaik. Continue past that and you will soon find Finger-Blaster, use pictures for aid.

Protection

Pads and Spotters. The more the better. The FA was done with 2 spotters and 1 pad, but we would suggest bringing as many pads as possible because it is a traverse with some pretty uneven terrain.

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