Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: First Recorded Ascent (FRA): Mike Freeborne
Page Views: 180 total · 12/month
Shared By: Jeremy Wicker on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Start below the beautiful overhanging hand crack in a left-leaning finger crack. Traverse up and right through easy climbing until you are at the triangle pod. Put gear in here because the next moves are tough. Getting established in the hand crack is the crux. Powerful and fun moves through the overhanging hand crack up to the second pod. The route is basically over once you're through the overhanging section. Follow the hand crack up to a ledge. Follow the dihedral which is cruiser 5.8 climbing. Finish with a gear anchor at the top of the dihedral or head right to the two bolt anchor for Cuerno Verde.

Location

The obvious and beautiful overhanging hand crack to the left of Cuerno Verde. Right of the left facing corner and the unknown sport route.

Protection

The lower pod takes either a .75 or .5 depending on where you place it. The hand crack loves yellow #2s. The dihedral takes small gear to #1. The anchor could use some wide gear if you're crazy enough to haul it up, otherwise you can fit a #2, #3, #1 or a .75 deep in the top of the crack.
Jeremy Wicker
Carson, New Mexico
  5.11b
Jeremy Wicker   Carson, New Mexico
  5.11b
This route is so beautiful and so tempting to climb, I doubt that we were the first ones to climb it. Please let me know if someone else has previously climbed this route and deserves the FA. Thanks! Sep 28, 2017
yes it has been climbed before. 2001 ish mike freeborne. maybe before us too? Sep 30, 2017
This is one of the original routes in this area. I led it in the mid nineties and Ed Jaramillo climbed it before me. Maybe he called it Handfull of fistjams? I am working on sorting these details out for Taos Rock 2. I like the Name Crack Of Dawn though! Feb 13, 2018