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Routes in West Nile Boulder (aka The Creek Boulder)

Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Thomas Townsend, Winter 2014
Page Views: 165 total · 33/month
Shared By: Sam Keechler on Sep 27, 2017
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This boulder is a link up between the start of Skin O' My Teeth V9 and the crux of Countdown to Extinction V10. A bit contrived, but a fun recycle move on some small sandstone holds brings you to the perfect compression section of Countdown, one of the best cruxes I've ever climbed. The goal of this line is to capture the some of the best movement on the boulder. Minus stars for it being a contrived link up, but plus stars for not having a rock at the start like Countdown.

Location

This route climbs the prow facing the creek. Low start on the huge jug on the left side of the prow. Traverse right through the small holds then bust straight up to a good edge/gaston that faces the wrong way. Finish straight up from here, through the crux of Countdown and into Le Bernd. If you go straight up by means of a left hand side pull above the start jug rather than traversing right, you're climbing Le Bernd Sit V5/6.

Protection

Pad, flat landing

Photos

Sam Keechler
San Luis Obispo, CA
 
Sam Keechler   San Luis Obispo, CA
 
I could spend part of any day of Santa Barbara bouldering at this boulder, repeating these lines is so much fun! I feel like it's fun enough to have its own page, but if Thomas had a different opinion for a name that would be fine. I thought Dystopia was good for the theme. And yes, the crux of countdown definitely is still the hard move, the other moves are just a different intro - but pretty good moves. Grandma Peabody is exactly what I was thinking of when I thought of this link up haha. I've updated the info as much as I can, thanks for the Santa Barbara climbing knowledge! Oct 13, 2017
SBs tiny version of the backside of Grandma Peabody. :)

Another variation/version that doesn't get done too often:
Le Ray: Start on the far, far right side, with the low (almost laydown) start (right hand in heuco). Traverse left at midheight, and continue all the way PASSED Le Bernd and top out on the Warm Up. Good fun, with lots of bonus techy. Oct 4, 2017
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Hey Sam, way to get psyched on this boulder. It delivers, doesn't it?

A little historical info: Thomas Townsend did this with me during the winter of 2014. He had just done Countdown to Extinction, and we were goofing off, adding eliminates, variations, etc. He didn't name it (he thought it didn't warrant "independent grade" status), but he said it felt about V9—give or take. I personally don't care if you call it Dystopia. I don't think Thomas cares either.

I'm also with Duke on this one. The start moves are no harder than V6. Probably more like V5 in my opinion. The only really hard move is that single movement to the "drive-by crimp". The way you did it makes it fairly hard (V9ish, per Thomas), but Duke is right, there is a way to make the sit-start about V6.

The problems here are super squished together, so it's tricky to parse beta. Oct 3, 2017
Sam Keechler
San Luis Obispo, CA
 
Sam Keechler   San Luis Obispo, CA
 
Hey Duke, thanks for the info. I believe that it may have been done, but definitely not at v5/6. Maybe it would be v5/6 if you merely climbed straight up and then into Le Bernd rather than moving right and doing the crux of Countdown. Countdown may be a bit soft for v10 but this is for sure about the same grade. I believe this would be a different climb than the sit start to Le Bernd. Or you could say its the same climb with extremely bad beta haha. Oct 1, 2017
Duke Lettieri
Santa Barbara, CA
 
Duke Lettieri   Santa Barbara, CA
 
Hey Sam, the sit to Le Bernd is definitely not V10 and many people have sent it. It goes at about V5 or 6. Sep 28, 2017
Sam Keechler
San Luis Obispo, CA
 
Sam Keechler   San Luis Obispo, CA
 
A beta video of the first ascent.

youtube.com/watch?v=lEWVb5R… Sep 27, 2017

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