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Dire Straits

5.10a X, Trad, 130 ft (39 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 3 votes
FA: Bob and Yvonne Gaines, July 1987
California > Tahquitz & Suic… > Suicide Rock > (m) The Weeping Wall

Description

Begin midway between Serpentine and Revelation. Climb up to a small overlap (thin pro here) then make crux slab moves just above it (5.10a). Continue up (5.8 R/X) to the second bolt on Serpentine, then climb slightly right, then directly up (5.8 R/X) to the Serpentine belay.

Protection

Thin pro for the overlap, then 1 bolt.

While the crux section is protected, much of the easier (5.7/5.8) climbing on this pitch has groundfall potential, so the overall seriousness rating is more like R/X.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

TJ Esposito
San Diego, CA
[Hide Comment] Oof, made extra scary by the fact that you can't see your piece in the overlap when you're pulling the crux, looks like you have no pro at all. Also, one of the edges at the crux (I think it was the best one actually) is def flexing. My belayer thought the groundfall potential at the crux was real too, I believe him. Exciting route! Jan 25, 2018
Slurm Charmsworth IV
EUREKA, CA
 
[Hide Comment] A real yikes-fest. Feb 1, 2022