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Forged In The Flames

5.11d, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 15 votes
FA: Sean da Costa
Oregon > Portland & The… > Broughton Bluff > (9) Jungle Cliff

Description

Distinguished by three distinct sections separated by bulges, as well as having a bit of an adventurous feel from losing sight of the belayer early on, this route is a solid addition to an already great wall. Start up a shallow dihedral to a rest under a major bulge, then fire through the bulge to a slightly slabby section. Follow this section into a few small bulges and a corner that eventually rounds off to the anchors on a ledge.

Typical jungle cliff new route warning: jungle cliff can be pretty dirty/dusty, especially the new routes. Accordingly, I have put over 6 hours in just cleaning/scrubbing this route, and others have put in several hours as well. However, it is still dirty, expect this. But at the same time, this route is really fun so don't let a little dirt scare you off!

Also, in the process of cleaning this route I fell off the end of my fixed line and had to go to the hospital to get 27 stitches. Don't let my suffering be for nothing!

This route was named after a great Earth Crisis song, and was FA-ed in the smoke of the Eagle Creek fire. Get it?! Climb this route after Firestorm (another Earth Crisis song from the same record) and you may just become straight edge
youtube.com/watch?v=-c1aXBm…

Location

This route lives just to the right of Ecocide, in front of a small tree/large bush and a large rock shaped like a blade.

Protection

12 bolts to a two bolt anchor with chains and winch hooks. All bolts are 1/2" and stainless steel, and the first five have fixed draws for ease of cleaning. Note that the opening to the winch hooks are not super large, so getting a rope over 10.5mm into them may be a tight squeeze.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Me on my new route, Forged In The Flames (5.11d)
[Hide Photo] Me on my new route, Forged In The Flames (5.11d)
Charlie Egan getting a rest on the slightly slabby section
[Hide Photo] Charlie Egan getting a rest on the slightly slabby section
Charlie Egan entering the first bulge
[Hide Photo] Charlie Egan entering the first bulge

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Antoine Delorme
Portland, OR
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] Sean, thanks for the great new route! I sent it yesterday and had tons of fun on it. Pulling the roof at the 4th bolt was the crux for me, the lack of feet and the dustiness of the handholds made it pretty desperate for me, but what a fun sequence getting there! Super nice addition to a cliff that does not stop to get better! Oct 1, 2017
Carl Fischberg
Vancouver, WA
 
[Hide Comment] The final bolt is in a position that my quickdraw liked to open against the slabby rock and my slightly longer draw had its spine against the edge, an extended draw might be a good idea here (we used 2 opposing draws). Great climb! The moves through the roof are sweet and the transition onto the top slab is quite enjoyable Glad to see someone thoroughly scrubbed the final slab! it looked more like a dry riverbed a few weeks ago. I spent a while scrubbing from there on down yesterday. Thanks to the other people out there scrubbing! Jun 22, 2020
Ari Aye
Portland, OR
  5.12-
[Hide Comment] Super fun route if you can find a window to get on it when it's not drenched. Also very, very dirty.

The best right foot for pulling over the roof broke. There is another option but it's not as good which bumps 11+ => 12- for me. May 14, 2023