Avg: 3 from 2
FA: JP Ouellet, Early 2000's (Probably)
> j. The Yellow Wall &…
Tree Preservation and Rappelling
Please use the bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Between the crack/corner of Wasp Stop and the chalk covered holds of The Sting
is a clean face which looks blank aside from the rails, but hides some nice climbing. This is The Prick, a line that has been toproped many times, led, forgotten about, and discovered again. I enjoyed the process of working out this route- if nothing else, it's something to try after The Sting.
The climb starts with a mirror reflection of The Sting's first move, but to a smaller hold and directly over the starting boulder. Gear protection won't work for this move, a pad on top of the boulder does fine. After this, trend up and slightly left. Climb another 11/12ish crux, enjoy a break and gear, climb another 10/11ish section, then climb the crux of The Sting.
Potentially, the Wasp Stop finish would create a more direct line, but departs pretty distinctly from the style of climbing on the route. I finished on The Sting, to stay on the wall and keep the climbing consistent (not to mention easier).
Don't attempt without a complete range of micro cams.