5.12+ PG13,
Trad, TR,
Avg: 3 from 3
votes
FA: JP Ouellet, Early 2000's
New York
> Gunks
> Trapps
> j. The Yellow Wall &…
Between the crack/corner of Wasp Stop and the chalk covered holds of
The Sting is a clean face which looks blank aside from the rails, but hides some nice climbing. This is The Prick, a line that has been toproped many times, led, forgotten about, and discovered again. I enjoyed the process of working out this route- if nothing else, it's something to try after The Sting.
The climb starts with a mirror reflection of The Sting's first move, but to a smaller hold and directly over the starting boulder. Gear protection won't work for this move, a pad on top of the boulder does fine. After this, trend up and slightly left. Climb another 11/12ish crux, enjoy a break and gear, climb another 10/11ish section, then climb the crux of The Sting.
Potentially, the Wasp Stop finish would create a more direct line, but departs pretty distinctly from the style of climbing on the route. I finished on The Sting, to stay on the wall and keep the climbing consistent (not to mention easier).
Don't attempt without a complete range of micro cams.
Boston