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Prick, The

5.12c PG13, Trad, TR,  Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: JP Ouellet, Early 2000's (Probably)
New York > Gunks > Trapps > j. The Yellow Wall &…
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

Between the crack/corner of Wasp Stop and the chalk covered holds of The Sting is a clean face which looks blank aside from the rails, but hides some nice climbing. This is The Prick, a line that has been toproped many times, led, forgotten about, and discovered again. I enjoyed the process of working out this route- if nothing else, it's something to try after The Sting.

The climb starts with a mirror reflection of The Sting's first move, but to a smaller hold and directly over the starting boulder. Gear protection won't work for this move, a pad on top of the boulder does fine. After this, trend up and slightly left. Climb another 11/12ish crux, enjoy a break and gear, climb another 10/11ish section, then climb the crux of The Sting.

Potentially, the Wasp Stop finish would create a more direct line, but departs pretty distinctly from the style of climbing on the route. I finished on The Sting, to stay on the wall and keep the climbing consistent (not to mention easier).

Location

Standing on The Sting boulder, locate a small needle-shaped pinch, pointing up. Finish at the Sting anchor.

Protection

Don't attempt without a complete range of micro cams.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Peter T
New Joisey
  5.12c PG13
[Hide Comment] I love this line - would probably be as classic as the sting if it protected as well. I haven't lead it but the gear looks reasonable. Definitely recommend getting on this, and finishing on wasp stop! Dec 30, 2018