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Routes in Blacksmith Peak

Forge, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
North Arete T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 8 pitches
FA: Mike Davis, Dave Nettle 7/96
Page Views: 200 total · 22/month
Shared By: Brian Prince on Sep 23, 2017
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Suggest Change]

Relatively clean route with some super good pitches. This aint the hulk though, expect some crusties.

P1 - 5.10+ 110' - head up the right side of the pillar. seems something may have changed here? hard climbing with just-ok pro off the ground lead up into more normal cracks and gear (handcrack in the corner you can see from the ground). Pull the roof at the end and belay on a nice ledge

P2 - 5.10+ 180' - up the sweet thin crack in the corner until it ends. keep going up easier terrain until possible to step left when things look blank. head into a wide but easier crack. traverse back right and belay.

p3 - 5.11- 110' - up and right to gain the beautiful shallow corner. up this and bust around the roof at the end. If rope drag is not too bad, it would behoove you to clip the belay bolt and go around the 2nd (easier) roof and belay. the stance at the bolt is fully hanging.

p4 - 5.9 160' - up flakey ground until a nice splitter leads up and left. belay on ramp/ledge

p5 - 5.6 100' - up and left on the ramp with short vertical sections of fins/flakes until the ramp kind of ends and you're forced to climb more straight up. you're aiming for the crack system that has an obvious rectangular slot in it.

p6 - 5.7 100' - up the steeper fins. belay at nice stance below the slot.

p7 - 5.9/10- 180' - steeper fins in and around the slot. when you get close to the top, it's better to stay right/straight up instead of bailing left to the north ridge.

p8 - 5.7 80' - face climb up and right to a sweet corner that takes you right to the summit.

Location [Suggest Change]

Start in the middle of the face on the right side of a super obvious thin pillar/pencil.

Descend the back side of the peak climbers right to obvious notch and then down main gulley to the right of the face.

Protection [Suggest Change]

doubles from tiny to 3, one 4.

Photos

Yo Brian! I hiked up to do this route 2 or 3 years ago and couldn't figure out where the start was... the hanging teeth up high were obvious but the start next to the pillar not so much. I emailed Nettle and told him that I thought the first pitch might have fallen off; he didn't seem surprised. This was near the end of the long drought and I suspect that the receding Glacier at its base could have contributed to the collapse. There were huge blocks all around the base of the wall and an obvious dark-colored scar where fresh rock had clearly been exposed. Glad to hear you can still get up it - we wimped out after seeing the lack of pro and hard climbing on P1, and went up the North Arete instead. Sep 23, 2017
Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
 
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
 
hey dude, yeah the pillar is still there. from far away and in some lighting it's really obvious. from the base, however, it's definitely not. something had to have changed, the first 40 ft. or so look completely blank from the ground. heading up, a few face features and pro options come available , but it's pretty spicy feeling (especially with frozen fingers) and feels 'fresh' for sure. we were not sure we were 'on route' until the second pitch. Since Nettle didn't mention that part on the topo, it's had to have been altered in some way.

Anyway, 'Arm and Hammer' looks like a really good line. I'd go back up there and do it sometime. Sep 24, 2017

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