Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 8 pitches|
|FA:||Mike Davis, Dave Nettle 7/96|
|Page Views:||169 total · 28/month|
|Shared By:||Brian Prince on Sep 23, 2017|
|Admins:||Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionRelatively clean route with some super good pitches. This aint the hulk though, expect some crusties.
P1 - 5.10+ 110' - head up the right side of the pillar. seems something may have changed here? hard climbing with just-ok pro off the ground lead up into more normal cracks and gear (handcrack in the corner you can see from the ground). Pull the roof at the end and belay on a nice ledge
P2 - 5.10+ 180' - up the sweet thin crack in the corner until it ends. keep going up easier terrain until possible to step left when things look blank. head into a wide but easier crack. traverse back right and belay.
p3 - 5.11- 110' - up and right to gain the beautiful shallow corner. up this and bust around the roof at the end. If rope drag is not too bad, it would behoove you to clip the belay bolt and go around the 2nd (easier) roof and belay. the stance at the bolt is fully hanging.
p4 - 5.9 160' - up flakey ground until a nice splitter leads up and left. belay on ramp/ledge
p5 - 5.6 100' - up and left on the ramp with short vertical sections of fins/flakes until the ramp kind of ends and you're forced to climb more straight up. you're aiming for the crack system that has an obvious rectangular slot in it.
p6 - 5.7 100' - up the steeper fins. belay at nice stance below the slot.
p7 - 5.9/10- 180' - steeper fins in and around the slot. when you get close to the top, it's better to stay right/straight up instead of bailing left to the north ridge.
p8 - 5.7 80' - face climb up and right to a sweet corner that takes you right to the summit.
LocationStart in the middle of the face on the right side of a super obvious thin pillar/pencil.
Descend the back side of the peak climbers right to obvious notch and then down main gulley to the right of the face.