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Mabley's Traverse

5.8+ PG13, Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches,  Avg: 3.5 from 2 votes
FA: Steve Mabley
Minnesota > Tettegouche SP… > Palisade Head

Description

Start may of changed as mention in RC M&W pg146 in the description for the route. I started on a small ledge to the left of what appeared to be a more direct start but has since collapsed.

P1) Stepping off the ledge around the small protrusion and upward toward the series of broken ledges is easy with sparse protection. Once on route proper the climbing remains straightforward through crack systems up to a slabby off-width where a natural chock with two pieces of worn nylon webbing are tied with water knots. Top out of that short but strenuous crack to a stance with two crumbling but sturdy, stubby pillars.

P2) From the belay disappear around the corner to the left on a small but easily traversed ledge, with great exposure to your right over looking the lake. A relatively easy series of ledges leading up and down to the ominous dark chimney / off-width climbing ahead requires some route finding skills and commitment.

P3) Start just below the large boulder thats lodged and creating a key hole entry, lots of loose rock here up the dull gully. Carefully climbing through the key hole and into a nice stance below the next short but intriguing off-width (#6 in the far back of the crack). atop the off width is more 5.easy with lots of loose rock, belayer must be tentative. into a comfortable chimney harboring your belay just before the top.

Location

Route #21 in RC M&W pg146, climbers right of "Scars and Tripes Forever", Mostly located in the Southern Ramparts Center.

Protection

Fixed chockstone on pitch 1. Rack, c4 #1-6, nuts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pitch 1
[Hide Photo] Pitch 1
The final 3rd pitch up through the key hole, off width,  and chimney climbing.
[Hide Photo] The final 3rd pitch up through the key hole, off width, and chimney climbing.
Remainder of pitch 2 an start of pitch 3
[Hide Photo] Remainder of pitch 2 an start of pitch 3
This is a bad photo but gives a general idea of where most of the traversing takes place on pitch 2.
[Hide Photo] This is a bad photo but gives a general idea of where most of the traversing takes place on pitch 2.
Small ledge I started on in bottom of photo.
[Hide Photo] Small ledge I started on in bottom of photo.