PRINT: Rock Climb Agonal, Squamish

Agonal

5.11, Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches, Grade II,

Avg: 3.5 from 11 votes
FA: Robin Barley and Peter Shackleton. 1996
International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Malamute > Grub Street

Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Description

Some great, well protected face climbing along the dike. Prepare thy dancing shoes for battle.

P1: Start up the corner from the logs, then steer right along the infant dike. Belay at right most ring-bolt-thingy 5.10

P2: Move along the overlap/roof, following the bolts rightwards. A tough sequence gets your feet above the overlap. Make your way daintily across the dance floor to double bolts. 5.11

P3: Continue along the dike and make a long reach straight up to gain the flake. A couple small pieces (red C3) help protect between the bolts. "Walk" right to the slab and make your way to the top of the buttress.

Location

Starts on the log bridge at the base, climb up the corner then angle right along bolts, continue that theme to the top.

Protection

Bolts and a very light single rack (some finger and tight hand pieces)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The belay position at the beginning of the 2nd pitch was not ideal. If I would do it again, I would build an anchor in the right leaning crack on the right. Not sure with the gear but would be ~ BD…

I'm pretty sure there's a lot more to life than being really, really, ridiculously good looking. And I plan on finding out what that is. -Zoolander

Ol' Jeffy PooPoo Face full strugglin'

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Benoit Potvin
North Vancouver, BC

5.11d

Wow what a great line! Felt harder than Cerberus but always thought that Cerberus was soft for 11d. The climbing is as good as the latter and the route dries quickly as well (except for the 1st pitch) that can be skipped. Gear wise I would say bring 14 quickdraws and a single rack (except if you want to build an anchor to facilitate belaying on the crux pitch). Also very well protected (maybe too much??). Nov 27, 2023