Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
This route is on the far left side of the upper tier of climbs. It is just to the right of the gully. Start by climbing an easy face beyond a series of horizontal cracks to a large flake not obvious from the ground. Traverse right a few feet to a off width left slanting crack. When the crack runs out, move right across the face on small foot holds until you reach the final dihedral for the final 15 feet to the top. There is one big tree about 10 feet back that can be used as an anchor. It's probably best to not use the small tree near the edge.
Location
The climb starts at 37.875468, -119.345802. This is on the upper tier of Puppy Dome. There is a prominent gully on the west side of the dome. It's on the northern portion. Climb up the face below two horizontal cracks about 20 feet above the ground. To descend, either walk off the backside or use the bolts 50 feet to climbers right.
Protection
Black Diamond 0.3 to 2. The climb is generally well protected. There are no bolts present or needed. Use the 6 inch diameter tree 10 feet back from the top for an anchor. Either walk off directly over the back or use the bolts 50 feet climbers right to descend.
[Hide Photo] The final 15-20 foot book is being climbed by Rahul Korpa.
[Hide Photo] Climb straight up to where the climber is standing on a 4 inch wide ledge. Protection could be placed here. Net move up and left toward the shallow, Right facing, left leaning dihedral (book)
[Hide Comment] Assigning this climb a new name and "FA" is a bit presumptuous. It was already well-established when I did it as my first-ever rock climb in 1975. Yosemite Mountaineering School used the upper tier of Puppy Dome as an intro teaching area at the time.
Sep 19, 2017
[Hide Comment] In the book "Tuolumne Topropes" by Rob Floyd, published in 2000 by Sharp End Publishing, it is named The Log 5.6. I free-soloed it onsight in 1985.
Sep 19, 2017
[Hide Comment] There are a number of climbs on the second tier of Puppy Dome. This one isn't on Mountain Project. The name describes the climb, a series of faces and books. If you want to write up the other climbs that YMS is using, that's fine with me. Likely the true first ascent for this route will never be known. It's a service to other climbers to have the routes described here.
Sep 19, 2017
[Hide Comment] Perhaps this climb and others on Puppy Dome were intentionally left out of the earlier guidebooks because the Yosemite Mountaineering School didn't want too many climbers on their training rock.
Sep 19, 2017
[Hide Comment] I checked out this area and while I didn't climb this route, I self-belayed myself up some route 30' to the right of the anchor bolts mentioned here. (It was a route that started with with thin slab going to an easy crack, gear anchor at the top of the crack). I saw the two bolts 50' to the right of Log had no rings, so I added quick links and Fixe stainless steel rap rings.
Sep 13, 2020
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Santa Rosa, CA
San Jose, CA