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Dreamland
5.13a,
Sport, 75 ft (23 m),
Avg: 3.3 from 3
votes
FA: FFA Alan Collins
Oregon
> Central Oregon
> Smith Rock
> (w) The Marsupials
> Marsupial Wall
> (a) Dreamland
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details:
smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
Start next to Off the Wall and work your way up a vertical rail just right of the bolts. Getting to the third bolt is a good technical warmup for what is to come. Above the 3rd bolt is a perplexing crux that requires some good imagination to make unbelievably bad handholds work. The overhanging headwall is probably around 12- and builds a great pump.
(Stay true to the line, don’t climb the neighboring off the wall at the cruxes for the full affect.)
Location
2nd most left route. Right of Off the Wall
Protection
fixed with steel draws
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Bend, OR