Masters Of Choss 5.8+
Trad, 320 ft (97 m), 3 pitches,
Avg: 1 from 1
FA: E. + L. Stefke, Doug Biber, Em Holland
> Sierra Eastside
> Bishop Area
> Pine Creek Canyon
> Scheelite Crags…
> PSOM Slab
The name says it all: you have to be a Master Of Choss to be skilled, sane, and willing enough to climb this route. Fledgeling 5.8/9 leaders would be better off not climbing here. The one redeeming quality of this route is that it allows relatively easy access into the upper reaches of PSOM.
P1(5.8+/ PG-13) - From the top anchor of Silver Streak angle right and up across a slab on crumbling flakes and edges to a pod/flake (#3 Camalot is not necessary, but helpful here). Climb up the flake, then up the short crack over a small bush. A fall anywhere between the Silver Streak anchor and this small bush would not be good! Pass a couple more (lg.) bushes on easier ground, then angle up and left via grungy chimneys. Exit left via a lieback flake and traverse to the bolted anchor. Watch rope drag on this pitch!
Note: (a single 70m rope rap from here will leave you a foot or two shy of the Silver Streak anchor below!)
P2 (5.7 PG-13) - From the bolted anchor follow the gully up for about 8-10' then traverse back left on a nice hand rail to a crack. Go up and surmount a tough little bush to gain the upper slab. On the right side of the slab follow discontinuous cracks and seams to the 'top' - a couple of large blocks. Belay from here, gear anchor, small cams/nuts. Look slightly up, right, and across to find the top of Tumbleweed Tales (about 20' above the closest prominent roof).
P3 (5.6 PG-13) - Traverse SW along the left or right side of the blocks (watching rope drag) to a short vertical section (choss!), go up a few feet then right over a bush to a dike/horizontal scoops and the top anchor for Tumbleweed Tales. It is possible to rap Tumbleweed Tales/JFMB on a single 70m rope. Always knot the ends, some raps are tight!
This route starts at the top anchor for Silver Streak. It is best to rappel from the anchor on top of Tumbleweed Tales.
Doubles of sm/med cams to .75 Camalot, singles #1,2,3 Camalot (you can get away with a lot less if you feel comfortable climbing movable holds on runout terrain); bolted anchor for P1 and 3, gear anchor for P2.
MoC, top of pitch 2, gear belay