All Locations > California > Sierra Eastside > Bishop Area > Pine Creek Canyon > Scheelite Crags… > PSOM Slab
Masters Of Choss
Avg: 1 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 320 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||E. + L. Stefke, Doug Biber, Em Holland|
|Page Views:||94 total · 15/month|
|Shared By:||old5ten on Sep 18, 2017|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionThe name says it all: you have to be a Master Of Choss to be skilled, sane, and willing enough to climb this route. Fledgeling 5.8/9 leaders would be better off not climbing here. The one redeeming quality of this route is that it allows relatively easy access into the upper reaches of PSOM.
P1(5.8+/ PG-13) - From the top anchor of Silver Streak angle right and up across a slab on crumbling flakes and edges to a pod/flake (#3 Camalot is not necessary, but helpful here). Climb up the flake, then up the short crack over a small bush. A fall anywhere between the Silver Streak anchor and this small bush would not be good! Pass a couple more (lg.) bushes on easier ground, then angle up and left via grungy chimneys. Exit left via a lieback flake and traverse to the bolted anchor. Watch rope drag on this pitch!
Note: (a single 70m rope rap from here will leave you a foot or two shy of the Silver Streak anchor below!)
P2 (5.7 PG-13) - From the bolted anchor follow the gully up for about 8-10' then traverse back left on a nice hand rail to a crack. Go up and surmount a tough little bush to gain the upper slab. On the right side of the slab follow discontinuous cracks and seams to the 'top' - a couple of large blocks. Belay from here, gear anchor, small cams/nuts. Look slightly up, right, and across to find the top of Tumbleweed Tales (about 20' above the closest prominent roof).
P3 (5.6 PG-13) - Traverse SW along the left or right side of the blocks (watching rope drag) to a short vertical section (choss!), go up a few feet then right over a bush to a dike/horizontal scoops and the top anchor for Tumbleweed Tales. It is possible to rap Tumbleweed Tales/JFMB on a single 70m rope. Always knot the ends, some raps are tight!