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Routes in PSOM Slab

Anger Management S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Big Deal, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Breaking & Entering T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Deal Breaker T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Digi T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fire Sale S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Five Finger Discount T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Go Left Old Man S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Life, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
John Fischer Memorial Route T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lawbreaker S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lizard Gizzards S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Masters Of Choss T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Negotiator, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
PBR Street Gang T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
PSOM Pinnacle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Polish Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pretty New Anchor T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Racing Lizards T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rattlesnake Errands S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raw Deal, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Same As It Never Was S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Serious But Not Desperate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Silver Streak T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slab-O-Rama S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Slip and Slide S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slow Ride T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Too Many Rules S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tumbleweed Tales T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wanted Man T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Your Mother Was a Hamster T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 320 ft, 2 pitches
FA: E. + L. Stefke, Doug Biber, Em Holland
Page Views: 103 total · 11/month
Shared By: old5ten on Sep 18, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Suggest Change]

The name says it all: you have to be a Master Of Choss to be skilled, sane, and willing enough to climb this route. Fledgeling 5.8/9 leaders would be better off not climbing here. The one redeeming quality of this route is that it allows relatively easy access into the upper reaches of PSOM.

P1(5.8+/ PG-13) - From the top anchor of Silver Streak angle right and up across a slab on crumbling flakes and edges to a pod/flake (#3 Camalot is not necessary, but helpful here). Climb up the flake, then up the short crack over a small bush. A fall anywhere between the Silver Streak anchor and this small bush would not be good! Pass a couple more (lg.) bushes on easier ground, then angle up and left via grungy chimneys. Exit left via a lieback flake and traverse to the bolted anchor. Watch rope drag on this pitch!

Note: (a single 70m rope rap from here will leave you a foot or two shy of the Silver Streak anchor below!)

P2 (5.7 PG-13) - From the bolted anchor follow the gully up for about 8-10' then traverse back left on a nice hand rail to a crack. Go up and surmount a tough little bush to gain the upper slab. On the right side of the slab follow discontinuous cracks and seams to the 'top' - a couple of large blocks. Belay from here, gear anchor, small cams/nuts. Look slightly up, right, and across to find the top of Tumbleweed Tales (about 20' above the closest prominent roof).

P3 (5.6 PG-13) - Traverse SW along the left or right side of the blocks (watching rope drag) to a short vertical section (choss!), go up a few feet then right over a bush to a dike/horizontal scoops and the top anchor for Tumbleweed Tales. It is possible to rap Tumbleweed Tales/JFMB on a single 70m rope. Always knot the ends, some raps are tight!

Location [Suggest Change]

This route starts at the top anchor for Silver Streak. It is best to rappel from the anchor on top of Tumbleweed Tales.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Doubles of sm/med cams to .75 Camalot, singles #1,2,3 Camalot (you can get away with a lot less if you feel comfortable climbing movable holds on runout terrain); bolted anchor for P1 and 3, gear anchor for P2.

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