PRINT: Rock Climb Black Mamba, Little Cottonwood Canyon

Black Mamba

5.11- PG13, Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches,

Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
FA: See Individual Routes
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Black Peeler Bu… > Peeler Face

Access Issue: On private land. Details

The land on which sits Black Peeler Buttress is owned by Perpetual Storage perpetualstorage.com/index_….

Be respectful of private property.

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

A novel free climbing link up on the main peeler face! No new pitches climbed or freed, but the aid descriptions of the two climbs do not make a multipitch free climb obvious. A working name given for simple reference.

Pitch One: Black Peeler P1, 5.10-
A thin layback up a right arching flake to a slabby corner. Hand traverse left to a bolted anchor.

Pitch Two: Black Peeler P2, 5.10+
Continue left off the belay into a huge roof traverse right. The initial climbing is awkward but ends with thoughtful fun moves. Traverse to an anchor past the flake. Save the 000 for gaining the foot ramp

Pitch Three: The Serpent P2, 5.11- PG-13
Head back left and pull into the hanging flake. Initial moves transitioning from underclings to the layback give the PG-13. The rest of the flake is steep, pumpy, and reasonably solid. A 2'x8' ear feature was trundled recently taking the grade up slightly. Finish at an anchor with chains

2 raps with a 70m, or 3 with a 60m

Location

The first two pitches of the Black Peeler original route into the pasted flake pitch of The Serpent. Free climbing up the middle of the foreboding Peeler face.

Protection

Doubles to #3. Micros down to 000. Offsets helpful.

Save the 000 to protect the follower at the end of pitch 2

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pitch 3, the flake post trundle

Ally following pitch 2

Topo

Pitch 2

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

nineplusplus Utah
Salt Lake City, UT

Strong work, Youth! Saw your black fixed line on it; psyched to try it! --the IME boys Sep 19, 2017

drewford
Wasatch Back, UT

I wondered when that flake on the last pitch of the Serpent was going to go. It was definitely a "pull down - not out" situation.

Funny historic note: when we first did the route, there was an old style #3 rigid Friend with biner behind the flake. So obviously we were not the first to try it. Probably we were just the first that were brave/stupid enough to pull on the flake and persevere to the top. Sep 27, 2017