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Routes in Peeler Face

Ace-Drizzle Memorial Route, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
All The Way Over Here By Ourselves, Bitches! T WI5 M6 R
Birthday Route T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Black Mamba T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Black Peeler T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3- PG13
Ezra The Catamite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Eye T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hell Broke Luce T A2+
Missing Vicki & Kirsten T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nazi Love Slaves T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0
Orangutan Afternoon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Peeler Direct C2
Riveting C0
Serpent, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A3
Skin Man T A3
Stag Party T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Tin Man T A3
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Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: See Individual Routes
Page Views: 240 total · 29/month
Shared By: Brent Barghahn on Sep 17, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: On private land. Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description [Edit]

A novel free climbing link up on the main peeler face! No new pitches climbed or freed, but the aid descriptions of the two climbs do not make a multipitch free climb obvious. A working name given for simple reference.

Pitch One: Black Peeler P1, 5.10-
A thin layback up a right arching flake to a slabby corner. Hand traverse left to a bolted anchor.

Pitch Two: Black Peeler P2, 5.10+
Continue left off the belay into a huge roof traverse right. The initial climbing is awkward but ends with thoughtful fun moves. Traverse to an anchor past the flake. Save the 000 for gaining the foot ramp

Pitch Three: The Serpent P2, 5.11- PG-13
Head back left and pull into the hanging flake. Initial moves transitioning from underclings to the layback give the PG-13. The rest of the flake is steep, pumpy, and reasonably solid. A 2'x8' ear feature was trundled recently taking the grade up slightly. Finish at an anchor with chains

2 raps with a 70m, or 3 with a 60m

Location [Edit]

The first two pitches of the Black Peeler original route into the pasted flake pitch of The Serpent. Free climbing up the middle of the foreboding Peeler face.

Protection [Edit]

Doubles to #3. Micros down to 000. Offsets helpful.

Save the 000 to protect the follower at the end of pitch 2

Photos

Strong work, Youth! Saw your black fixed line on it; psyched to try it! --the IME boys Sep 19, 2017
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
I wondered when that flake on the last pitch of the Serpent was going to go. It was definitely a "pull down - not out" situation.

Funny historic note: when we first did the route, there was an old style #3 rigid Friend with biner behind the flake. So obviously we were not the first to try it. Probably we were just the first that were brave/stupid enough to pull on the flake and persevere to the top. Sep 27, 2017

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