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Routes in Feral Petunia

Black Dog T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Heading South S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Key West T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Margaritaville S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plummer's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Simple Green T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slabbist S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sustainable Organic Bolting T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yes, I Am A Pirate S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Harvey T. Carter
Page Views: 205 total · 15/month
Shared By: Arlo F Niederer on Sep 16, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This climb has varied, interesting, and sustained climbing.

The first section of the climb is on mostly good holds up through two roof bands which the Plummer's Crack system cuts through.

Although it looks like a crack, there are many features which allow climbing without resorting to much jamming. However, the cracks provide ample opportunities for protection except in a few places.

The second roof is passed with thin/finger jams and stemming to reach a good thin hand jam on the left.

Horizontal cracks and vertical cracks lead to the crux:

A lieback flake on the right can be used to make progress smearing on the face until a good chickenhead can be reached.

Alternatively, a good finger slot near the bottom of the flake can be used with smears and a crystal to get high enough to reach back to the main crack system on the left which is finger-sized.

Protection is tricky here, especially if you preserve the slot for the fingers. Also, it is difficult to lean far enough to the right to insert and inspect the pro.

Above the crux, a slabby, long crack trends slightly right with good slots for hands, toejams, and smears up to the anchors.

Location

It is around to the East from the steep, featured slab. The route is the prominent crack system which cuts through a double roof.

Protection

A rack to 3" and adequate slings to keep the rope running straight so that all the various options for pro can be used.

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