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Routes in Dark Side of the Moon

Crazy Diamond S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dream Weaver S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Freebird S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Rabbit S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wish You Were Here S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Chris Barnes and Mike Engle, Sept 2017 bolted by Chris Barnes, Vernon Phinney, and Mike Engle
Page Views: 24 total, 8/month
Shared By: Mike Engle on Sep 16, 2017
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

P1: 5.7. Scramble up to the grassy ledge in the deep gully between Sea of Joy and Dark Side of the Moon formations. On the right side of the grassy ledge start climbing very featured limestone that is splattered with a generous amount of chert. Fun climbing on big holds leads to chain anchors in a small scoop.

P2: 5.10. Continue up on big holds and eventually the climbing gets steeper and the holds smaller. There is a steep white headwall guarding the chain anchors at the top of pitch 2. Fun crux.

Location

This route follows the prominent continuous blunt buttress on the left side of the Dark Side of the Moon formation.

Protection

P1: 12 bolts, chain anchors.
P2: 11 bolts, chain anchors.
Descend in 2 rappels with a single 60 meter rope.

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