Avg: 1 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 65 ft (20 m)|
|FA:||Taylor Boyd, Jaron Earle|
|Page Views:||404 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||Jaron a on Sep 14, 2017|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
On the northern end of the Red Wine wall there is a series of dihedrals that ends up in a double crack system about 3/4 of the way up. Start in the lower dihedral mostly face climbing placing micros then step out left onto the low(ish) angle slab heavily covered in lichen, then make some moves up to the small ledge where the splitter cracks begin. Some jamming leads to stemming and topping out on a vegetated ledge. Build the belay off of hand of finger sized gear in large blocks. Walk off or rap a dead tree to the climbers lift. Be aware of loose blocks, as there are many despite our cleaning.