Type: Trad, Alpine, 65 ft
FA: Taylor Boyd, Jaron Earle
Page Views: 97 total · 6/month
Shared By: Jaron a on Sep 14, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

We believe this to be a first ascent, if not, let me know and I will update the page with the proper fa info.

On the northern end of the Red Wine wall there is a series of dihedrals that ends up in a double crack system about 3/4 of the way up. Start in the lower dihedral mostly face climbing placing micros then step out left onto the low(ish) angle slab heavily covered in lichen, then make some moves up to the small ledge where the splitter cracks begin. Some jamming leads to stemming and topping out on a vegetated ledge. Build the belay off of hand of finger sized gear in large blocks. Walk off or rap a dead tree to the climbers lift. Be aware of loose blocks, as there are many despite our cleaning.

Location

Northern end of the crag.

Protection

Metolius 00-8, extra in the the micros. Bristle pads for cleaning lichen and a nut key for any other gardening.

Photos

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