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Routes in Chicken Rock

5.7 Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
KFC T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
KFC Chimney Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Missing Chickenheads S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Three Amigos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown (10a sport with trad 10b second pitch) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown (5.8?) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown (Huecos and Chickenheads?) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown 5.8 Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown 5.8 Face S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 61 total, 26/month
Shared By: Taketaketaketaketake ....take on Sep 14, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This one is guaranteed to put a smile on your face, the holds are ridiculously large. The first pitch alone is a great outing for newbies or the aspiring 5.8 climber.

The first pitch climbs the shallow crack with red bed-frame hangers (I think the first hanger disappears and reappears periodically, maybe bring gear if the first bolt looks too high for your comfort level). It has bolted anchors.

The second pitch follows the bolt line up and to the right of the ominous looking roof -- fear not, the climbing stays easy. There are more bolted anchors.

Rap with two ropes, or using the bolt and chain anchors for the trad climb to the right of the first pitch.

Location

It is up the hill and to the left of the main wall with the easier mixed / trad lines. The red bed-frame hangers on the first pitch make it easy to spot.

Protection

A dozen quickdraws should be plenty. Bring two ropes if you don't want to rap twice.

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