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Routes in CM: Devils Elbow

College Dropout S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Community College S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Devil's Armpit, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Engineers Without Boulders TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eye Socket S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Grapefruits and Cannonballs S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mike's Crack S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Three Tests on a Thursday S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Andrew Stemmler
Page Views: 170 total · 28/month
Shared By: Greg Gamble on Sep 13, 2017
Admins: Marcus Floyd, Dave Hug

You & This Route

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Start with a low tecky crux by keeping your balance and sticking the sharp crimps. Past here, look in to a hole in the rock you'll see a plastic skull warning you of what's to come. The next 50 feet is sustained 5.10a crimping before you reach a marvelous rest ledge with one of the best views at Delbow. Follow a crack a little ways from the ledge and power through the last roof to reach the chains.


Walk left of the amphitheater, pass mikes crack and, look for a tall, yellow colored dolomite cliff.


13 bolts and lower offs.


The beta given here is wrong. I don't know what Greg was smoking when he posted this but I helped bolt this routes and have climbed it dozens of times. After the ledge stay in the crack as the face is featureless follow it as it trends left. Find the good undercling in crack reach out right until you find the finish jug up and to the left of the anchors. Protection 13 bolts lower offs. Dec 1, 2017
Greg Gamble  
Well obviously I wasn't smoking as much as you. It's just that every time I've climbed this thing, I end up about ten feet to the right of the anchors in the crack. I think you need to start in the crack at the ledge and then peel of to the left towards the anchors as you go up.

Some one sent you a letter from Michigan. Stop by the house and pick it up if you want. Dec 1, 2017

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