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Fish & Whistle

5.10-, Trad, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 3 from 9 votes
FA: Darin Berdinka - 9/11/2017
Washington > Northwest Region > N Cascades > Vesper Peak

Description

Sustained climbing up a nice friction slab, a tenuous seam and a long, exposed face. P1/2 and P3/4 are readily linked with a 60m rope. Rock quality on this part of the face is generally excellent.

P1 Climbs a great friction slab past 5 bolts. 80’ 5.9 or 5.10-

P2 Head straight up a much easier slab past 2 bolts, a fixed pin and a couple small gear placements. Just below a tree traverse left across a heather gully then up 8’ of 4th class choss to a fixed anchor. 115’ 5.7

P3 Juggy rock leads up and right into a nice long seam protected by a mix of gear and bolts. A great pitch. 90’ 5.9

P4 A short connector pitch climbs up then right past 4 bolts. 60’ H.6

P5 Climb straight up the face above on progressively harder face climbing past 9 bolts. The last 10’ will remind you that you’re still climbing off the Mountain Loop Highway. Need small cams or cordellete for belay. 140’ 5.9 or 5.10-

Location

Start from a large tree 50’ left of True Grit.

Protection

10 draws, couple small & medium stoppers, single set of cams tiny to 0.75 Camalot, maybe an extra finger size cam or two.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Last pitch
[Hide Photo] Last pitch
Pitch 5 of Fish and Whistle
[Hide Photo] Pitch 5 of Fish and Whistle
Sharon on the friction slab of P1
[Hide Photo] Sharon on the friction slab of P1
Sharon on P2
[Hide Photo] Sharon on P2
Sharon is pullig through the roof on to the system of disappearing seams on P3
[Hide Photo] Sharon is pullig through the roof on to the system of disappearing seams on P3

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Sharon B.
Porltand, OR
  5.10- PG13
[Hide Comment] Climbed this 8/7/18. P1 is on awesome clean granite, pure friction, reminded me of Tuolumne slab climbing! Would make a fun alternative start to True Grit; clip the anchors and continue up to the TG anchors below the chimney. I thought the hardest climbing was on P1, but P3 was the technical crux. Heady climbing over thin, sparse, finicky gear. Final pitch was really fun climbing and awesome exposure - bolt spacing a little odd up high but falls would be clean. Hopefully my partners will add some photos soon! Aug 8, 2018
Anastasia B
Portland, OR
  5.10-
[Hide Comment] Climbed it with Sharon B on 08/07/18. Weird bolting. The moderate bottom part of pitch 5 is over-bolted for no reason (albeit taking perfect gear), while the 5.10 slab at the top has only 1 bolt in 30' (above the crux) with the only option for a grey alien in the widening diagonal crack of the 2 inch pebble which was pretty much useless. I was looking at a very bad fall of 40+ feet. Aug 9, 2018
kmfoerster
Seattle, Wa
  5.10-
[Hide Comment] Fun route. Took the recommended gear rack along with the draws and it felt a bit bigger than it needed to be. The route never really felt run out to me (If you don't mind not placing gear through the 4th class section on p2) and we only placed maybe 2-3 pieces of gear with the biggest being a .4 camalot. Having a double length runner for clipping the anchor bolts between p1,2 and P3,4 helps with rope drag when connecting the pitches. Aug 5, 2019
Brad Beggs
Washington
  5.10-
[Hide Comment] One can skip the first pitch and climb the 4th class gulley climbers left of the pitch. The 4th class is juggy and straightforward and goes right to the anchors of pitch 1. Fun route even if you skip pitch one.

Makes for a nice linkup when combined with the other Vesper routes.

Thanks for putting it up! Sep 1, 2019
JCM
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] Climbed this in summer 2020 and thought is was a very good route. Protection was good throughout. P1 had the hardest moves (insecure slabbing), while P3 was the most challenging lead. A selection of small cams and nuts is needed to protect P3, but with these it feels quite safe. I brought cams from Purple C3 to Red Alien, plus a small selection of offset nuts. Bolting on P5 is fine and is nothing to worry about. Awesome top-out right at the summit on P5.

Morning sun, afternoon shade. When I climbed the route in late July, the route was going into shade when I arrived at the base at 11:30. Climbed in the shade for the whole route and was borderline chilly even though it was a hot day. Good route for warm weather. Dec 22, 2020