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Routes in Lambda

Hot Chili S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hot Chili Young Love S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hotel Simi S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
KV Brig S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lambda S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Norden S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Progressive Rock part.1 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Schwjieschwanz S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Telendos Star S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 165 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 36 total · 3/month
Shared By: susan peplow on Sep 10, 2017
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, Jason Halladay

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Description

Indicted in the guidebook with a song translates as a "must do route".
The route climbs low angle chunky rock to a shelf with cave then transitions out the right side of the cave up juggy and friendly holds.

The first section is low angle with many features passing 8 bolts. Free solo, skip bolts, or long-slings recommended at a minimum to reduce rope drag. The first section is probably 5.5 or so climbing. At the cave is a 2 bolt lower off, sling here for protection and ease later. Coming out of the cave is protected by a bolt then bringing you along the right side to continue to the top using many features and some route finding skills past another 12 bolts. The rope is heavy making good style and clipping from your waist helpful.

To descend, lower from top anchors to mid-point which is a rope stretcher with a 70m. Belayer, tie a knot in the end and you'll likely be walking up the slab a bit. As the leader when you reach the anchor clip in and secure. From there, pull rope and rap to the base. Optionally an 80m rope will get you further down the slab where you could untie and down climb (your comfort and skill level may vary).

Location

Near the right side of the wall - featured grey chunky rock at the start and below a large egg shaped cave. Labeled in paint at the base.

Protection

20 bolts, two sets of lower offs. Bring runners for mid-point anchor and/or starting slab.

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