Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Goat Rock

East Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
West Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, Alpine, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 138 total · 11/month
Shared By: Mat Brunton on Sep 10, 2017
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

From the col between West Twin and Goat Rock scramble over a bump to a nice belay ledge for the first pitch.

P1: (low 5th, ~55m) Climb up from the ledge, and then slightly right through a steep section to mellower terrain. There is a large, shattered/broken horn than provides a solid anchor.

P2: (low 5th, ~45m) Meander up from the large horn anchor to a large ledge at the base of a prominent dihedral feature. Get creative for an anchor; there isn't much obviously reliable besides the crack in the dihedral corner (but how this option will work as a belay depends on how you ascend the next pitch).

P3: (moderate 5th, ~50m) Climb the dihedral or blockier terrain climber's right of it. Options are likely 5.6-5.8. Meander above the dihedral to relatively flat and broad terrain near the summit. Get creative with the choss for an anchor.

While this route is easy to moderate fifth, generally enjoyable, and features great views; reliable protection and anchors are hard to come by and the rock is very loose.

The more difficult sections seemed to offer protection where needed, but the route is otherwise EXTREMELY runout and fall due to a slip or loose rock would be catastrophic.

Descending via the West ridge is recommended as it's basically a 4th class walkoff. Reliable anchors for 1-2 rappels can be found if not comfortable with the downclimbing.

Protection

Single rack of cams to BD #3 size. Nuts.

Description

From the col between West Twin and Goat Rock scramble over a bump to a nice belay ledge for the first pitch.

P1: (low 5th, ~55m) Climb up from the ledge, and then slightly right through a steep section to mellower terrain. There is a large, shattered/broken horn than provides a solid anchor.

P2: (low 5th, ~45m) Meander up from the large horn anchor to a large ledge at the base of a prominent dihedral feature. Get creative for an anchor; there isn't much obviously reliable besides the crack in the dihedral corner (but how this option will work as a belay depends on how you ascend the next pitch).

P3: (moderate 5th, ~50m) Climb the dihedral or blockier terrain climber's right of it. Options are likely 5.6-5.8. Meander above the dihedral to relatively flat and broad terrain near the summit. Get creative with the choss for an anchor.

While this route is easy to moderate fifth, generally enjoyable, and features great views; reliable protection and anchors are hard to come by and the rock is very loose.

The more difficult sections seemed to offer protection where needed, but the route is otherwise EXTREMELY runout and fall due to a slip or loose rock would be catastrophic.

Descending via the West ridge is recommended as it's basically a 4th class walkoff. Reliable anchors for 1-2 rappels can be found if not comfortable with the downclimbing.

Protection

Single rack of cams to BD #3 size. Nuts.

Photos

0 Comments

More About East Ridge

Printer-Friendly