PRINT: Rock Climb Grip, South Platte

Grip

5.9-, Sport, 35 ft (11 m),

Avg: 2.2 from 63 votes
FA: Prehmus
Colorado > S Platte > Staunton SP > Raven

Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Seasonal Falcon Closures in effect from March 15 - July 31.

- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall

Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.

Seasonal Falcon closures in effect from March 15 - July 31. - Lion's Head (not pictured). - Roughneck Area. There are no closures at Staunton Rocks.

Description

Grip (named for the most famous Raven of the Tower of London) is a short pitch above Magpie and can be combined into a single, 90 foot pitch with that climb (recommended). It can also be accessed from the ledge system south of the Grey Jay anchor.

Start from the solid stance under the right-facing corner. Follow the bolts right and out over the overhang and onto the face. Getting your feet established on the face is the crux. It's buckets from there.

Location

This is above Magpie.

Protection

By itself: 4 or 5 bolts.

From the Magpie anchor: 6 bolts combined with Magpie's 9 bolts for 15 bolts with a 2 bolt anchor with Mussy hooks.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Rave On.
<br>

<br>
At some points, your hands are for balance only: there is nothing to pull on.

Rave On. At some points, your hands are for balance only: there is nothing to pull on.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tan B
Chattanooga, TN

Excellent jugfest of a 5.8. May 11, 2019

Scott Chico
Morrison CO

Combined this pitch with Magpie to make a long and enjoyable climb. Accurate description of moving out of the corner onto the face where it was a long step for my first foothold in order to get established. Again I did some back climbing to undo a few of my clips to reduce the drag. May 22, 2020

Luke Clarke
Golden

Second the recommendation for combining the pitches. Skip or back clean the last bolt on Magpie, clip one of the anchors long, and rope drag is not an issue. Nice to add some high-angle climbing to a slab pitch. Jul 31, 2020

aikibujin
Castle Rock, CO

5.9

I would call this 5.9. You have to pull a few reachy, traversy moves to clip the second (or is it the third?) to the right - felt harder than a 5.8. Oct 19, 2020