Type: Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches
FA: Slater, Doe
Page Views: 1,091 total · 21/month
Shared By: Brian Prince on Sep 8, 2017
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Access may be closed Details

Description

I dunno about the "mega-classic" part. but pretty friggin sweet. and unique for shuteye

Start under the big roof on the wall, towards the left side near some cracks. 1st bolt right off the ground.

P1 - 10+ - tough slab climbing past a couple bolts then climb a flake. basically repeat this process, wandering around a bit. Kinda nasty ledge fall potential on the last slab section. nice ledge and bolted anchor below the roof. Long pitch, may want to break up

P2 -10c - obvious to bolted anchor on nice stance.

P3 - straight up, then right, then up to bolted anchor. short pitch

P4 - same as crossing the milky way's last pitch. up and left to the top on huge chickenheads. cruiser

Easy and worth it to access other formations once on top of the wall. Also, nice walk-off to the left leads back to base.

Location

2wd low clearance fine. mammoth pool/minarets road, to 7so2, 6 miles to 7so2H. Right turn on 7so2H and park pretty much right away. Hike to the end of the road (deteriorates quickly) until obvious climbers trail. be on serious lookout for a fork in the trail. Right fork is super easy to follow, left fork is what you want. fork comes maybe 15-20 min from parking. then another 30 of following cairns to base.

Protection

singles to #.5 , doubles #.75 ->#2 . I thought single #3 and #4 was fine. If anything, bring an extra #.75 and #1

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