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Routes in Milky Way Wall

Crossing the Milky Way T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Edge of the Galaxy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Halfway to Uranus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lightning Cracks T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sons of Thunder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Supernova T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 600 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Slater, Doe
Page Views: 219 total · 18/month
Shared By: Brian Prince on Sep 8, 2017
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

I dunno about the "mega-classic" part. but pretty sweet.

Start under the big roof on the wall, towards the left side near some cracks. 1st bolt right off the ground.

P1 - 10+ - tough slab climbing past a couple bolts then climb a flake. basically repeat this process, wandering around a bit. Kinda nasty ledge fall potential on the last slab section. nice ledge and bolted anchor below the roof. Long pitch, may want to break up

P2 -10c - obvious.

P3 - straight up, then right, then up to bolted anchor. short pitch

P4 - same as crossing the milky way's last pitch. up and left to the top on huge chickenheads. easy in approach shoes.

Easy and worth it to access other formations once on top of the wall. Nice walk-off leads back to base.

Location

2wd low clearance fine. mammoth pool/minarets road, to 7so2, 6 miles to 7so2H. Right turn on 7so2H and park pretty much right away. Hike to the end of the road (deteriorates quickly) until obvious climbers trail. be on serious lookout for a fork in the trail. Right fork is super easy to follow, left fork is what you want. fork comes maybe 15-20 min from parking. then another 30 of following cairns to base.

Protection

singles to #.5 , doubles #.75 ->#2 . I thought single #3 and #4 was fine. If anything, bring an extra #.75 and #1

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