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Routes in The Fortress

Charlee and the Stick Factory S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Perils of Babylon S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sage Finds the Golden Stick S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shadowboxing S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shadows on the Earth S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Solar Winds S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sun Burn S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: John Robinson, Brad Johnson
Page Views: 315 total · 25/month
Shared By: John Robinson on Sep 8, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Kyle Bishop, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: No overnight camping on PG&E property Details

Description

(This Route is so new it's not in the new North Tahoe Guide Book) 20' right of "Shadows on the Earth". Walk up a 3' wide ramp about 10', and clip the first bolt. A tricky little move gets you to a good stance and ready for the first crux. Maybe a jam, maybe a sidepull, maybe a wide stem, maybe a high step, maybe an undercling (you gotta figure it out). Now continue up to the headwall and make an abrupt left turn and traverse about as far as you can, then go up and see if you can figure out how to get over the roof. I made the clip at the roof easier as some gumby complained the hanger was too hard to clip so I added a perma draw. Now you need to figure out how to get over the overhang. There are some excellent holds over the top of the overhang but it might be a bit perplexing, getting to those good holds. There are holds there, you just need to find them. After the overhang is mounted you have easy 5.9 sailing to the top anchors. You might tell yourself that the move just before the top anchor is harder than 5.9 but, if you figure out what to do, you'll tell yourself, "that wasn't that hard".

Location

Just right of "Shadows on the Earth" walk up a wide ledge to clip the first bolt.

Protection

11 bolts and top mussy hooks

Photos

Kyle Bishop
Nevada City, CA
  5.11b
Kyle Bishop   Nevada City, CA  
  5.11b
I'll happily give this three stars once we clean up the glue situation ;)

Thanks for the awesome route, guys! I know a TON of work goes into something so traversy and roofy. Nov 18, 2017
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
There are a few aesthetic issues of bolt heads sticking out and maybe the glued up hold mentioned above, but this route is seriously good. Great eye for a line by the FA party. It is varied and has great exposure while pursuing cool features. Seriously underrated in terms of quality here, it is a fun, well-protected romp. Jun 5, 2018

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