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Routes in 4. Canary Wall

Birds of a Feather T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Canary Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cat That Ate the Canary T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Oh Boy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tower Station T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
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Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: D.Mabe
Page Views: 295 total · 23/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Sep 8, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

A memorable tower-like mini-adventure on the Canary Crack Buttress featuring a dancing finger crack and sloper-slapping crux. One can easily link the two pitches in a long varied pitch though some may opt to make a pit stop at the Tower Station belay to savor the experience. This was intended to offer the most responsive belay for your follower.

P1: Scramble up the broken ramp to the start of the tips crack. Face climb slightly left to start the finger crack, some spots along the crack graze the 5.11 mark. When the crack ends, commit to the sloper crux (5.12), protected by bolt right at your chest. Traverse the sloper rail left followed by another bolt, and scamper up a flake and cracks to the ledge. 60'

P2: Reach up the face past a bolt to the next ledge. (Wise to pre-place this draw when you rap past it). Step across the abyss and stem up the finishing slot. 5.9+. Some questionable large chockstones. 40'

Location

East side of the buttress. Starts on the ramp with lone tree. Belay in broken left facing dihedral right of the tree.

Protection

Metolius #00-3 or equiv
C4 #0.5-1
Some good options for stoppers too.
Bottom belay takes pretty much anything from fingers size to #2 or #3 C4

Photos

Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12
Big thanks to Jason Kennedy and Trevor Bowman for the belay support! Sep 8, 2017

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