Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: 1957-09-15 by Ron Hahn, Dick Ingraham, Dan Stotts
Page Views: 503 total · 9/month
Shared By: Drew Chojnowski on Sep 7, 2017
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Power drilling is prohibited in the Organ Mountains Wilderness. Details

Description

This is a fun, exposed way to reach the summit of S-1, first climbed in 1957 and referred to in the original summit register as the "N Arete". Start on the West Face, climbing up and left over featured, protectable rock until a piton is encountered below a ridge leading south from the north face. The step onto this ridge is the crux of the route, and is memorable due to the many hundred foot nearly vertical drop now visible at climber's left (east).

Location

To get to the route, approach as for Squaretop. To get down, do a somewhat awkward rap (single 60m) back to the west using slings/webbing around a boulder below the summit block.

Protection

A few medium/small cams and a long sling are sufficient. The piton can be clipped. Or, free-solo the route like Tom Lepinski did on 2012-04-30.

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