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Routes in Britney Spears Arête

Oops, I Did It Again S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, TR, Alpine, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 81 total · 6/month
Shared By: Trevor Olson on Sep 7, 2017
Admins: grk10vq, Zach Wahrer

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Description

A very fun, sustained 5.10b/c climb. Steep, and interspersed with different moves throughout. Face climbing, a crack, a roof, a little traverse, mantels, lie-backs etc! It's got it all! Unfortunately, I don't know the name of the route or who the first ascencionist is, so if you know this info get in touch and I'll update the climb on MP!

Location

This route is very difficult to find on it's own. The suggested way to get there is by climbing the first two pitches of "Oops, I Did It Again" then rappel from the anchors on P2, down the steep north side of Britney Spears Arête. The rappel goes down the climb.

Alternatively, from the base of "Oops, I Did It Again" you can try to work your way up the gully to the right. It's loose, full of vegetation, and steep.

The first bolt is next to a large dead tree that has a sling around it. This tree and the platform it's on makes a decent belay stance. From this stance traverse left to the first bolt, then up to the overhang, and continue following bolts.

If you climb the first two pitches of "Oops, I Did It Again" you can easily top rope this climb with a single 60m rope. Although, a 70m will get you almost all the down to the main ledge when you are done climbing.

Protection

Mostly draws, but there are a couple spots that you'll want to supplement with a few cams. There is certainly a pocket for a .4 cam, as well as a really sketchy .2 placement. A cam will fit in the crack in the roof as well which will protect that crux move. Besides that, it bolted pretty well, although there is a decent distance between bolts. You'll want your lead game on. Falls should be clean though as it is a steep route.

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