Type: Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 298 total · 11/month
Shared By: Mat Brunton on Sep 5, 2017
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Access Issue: Private property with public access. Be mindful to keep climbing accessible!! Details

Description

Fun alpine route for approach shoes with great views. Take the SW couloir up to the col on the ridge where it meets the NW (Pinnopsicle) couloir (3rd class), and the fifth class begins. Climb up from the col toward the summit.

There is an existing anchor directly above the col, but it's very close and not that great of a belay stance. Continue more or less straight up past it to a talus laden ledge with a slung boulder anchor (blue webbing) and another anchor consisting of two heavily rusted pitons and bleached webbing at the base of the next wall.

From this anchor you can reach relatively flat ground around the summit. Options climber's left are easier and less direct. Options straight up, or slightly climber's right are more difficult (5.7ish), but direct and clean.

There is an anchor consisting of fresh (9/4/17) cord slung around a large boulder near the summit directly up the rock wall from the previous anchor.

A single 50m rope is sufficient for getting up and down the climb in two pitches, with maybe one or two moves of easy downclimbing on the rappels (to the anchors described above). A single 60m is more than enough to descend the route in two rappels.

Protection

A single rack of cams to BD #3 is more than enough for a competent climber.

You will need webbing or cord if you need to build or replace anchors.

Photos

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