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Routes in Mount Harvey

North Face Ramp T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Pup Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, Alpine
FA: unknown
Page Views: 168 total · 14/month
Shared By: Hans on Sep 4, 2017
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

A scramble or easy climb, the North Face Ramp climbs a ramp like feature on Mount Harvey's north face.

Locate the ramp as per the Mount Harvey page, and follow it to its top.

Approach to Mount Harvey's North Face Ramp

At the bottom of the North Face Ramp, on the approach to the Pup Buttress.

The ramp is exposed in its entirety, and several 4th or easy 5th class cruxes are encountered. The rock is very solid, but few protection placements are possible.

Climbing routes on Mount Harvey.

On Mount Harvey's North Face Ramp

From the top of the ramp, an obvious trail contours around the mountain and leads to the summit.

Mount Harvey as seen from Brunswick Mountain

Best climbed on a hot day in late summer, as the ramp is always in shade and snow lingers into July.

Beta

Although the rock is solid and the grade is very low, this route should not be underestimated. A slip during a solo ascent from much of the route would likely result in a fatality. Parties using a rope will find gear placements to be extremely infrequent and there are few good belay possibilities. Caution is encouraged. During a solo ascent in 2016 I found myself rather gripped at times, and a party had to be rescued in 2017 when they were unable to go further and too scared to retreat.

Near the bottom of the North Face Ramp, on the approach to the Pup Buttress.

Having said this, the climbing is quite enjoyable and so with this caveat in mind I recommend the route to those who are capable.

Descent

A hiking trail leads south west from the summit, and joins up with the main access road used on the approach. Follow this back to the trailhead.

Alternatively, reverse the trail used to reach the summit for a few minutes to reach a junction. Go right and down to near Magnesia Meadows on the Howe Sound Crest trail and descend from there.

Photos

Dru B.
 
Dru B.  
 
A classic winter line with 45 to 55 degree snow and the odd WI2 bulge. The original winter ascent went straight up from the top of the ramp instead of following the leftward traverse that most climbers now use. Done this way there are two pitches of WI 2 to WI3 featuring "real climbing", unlike most of the ramp, which is easy step-kicking.

Not a great summer line IMO Sep 29, 2017

More About North Face Ramp

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