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Grape Nuts

5.13a, Trad,  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: Russ Clune, Al Diamond 1995
New York > Gunks > Trapps > e. The Mac Wall (Some…

Description

Trad bouldering at its finest. Climb up thirty feet of easy flakes, and then build your life nest from the stance before embarking on the core-intensive dyno boulder problem.

Perform one more difficult sequence in the corner above the roof before hanging a hard right, and then bust through the next roof at the obvious weakness. Crunch through lichen en route to the fixed anchor.

Location

The same start as Impenetrable Ceilings. After crossing the roof, the route makes a sharp right.

Protection

Small nuts and microcams, maybe up to a 0.75 or 1 for the top easy bit.

Fixed gear anchor as of 9/2017, but use at your own discretion and take care in cleaning.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

ChrisHau
Minneapolis, MN
  5.13a
[Hide Comment] As of 9/2/2017, this route had a few fixed nuts at the crux - clip at your own discretion. These are easily backed up with a few microcams, which can be arranged to not block your handholds. Sep 3, 2017