Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Dale Caldwell, 1988
Page Views: 299 total · 17/month
Shared By: Matthew Tangeman on Aug 31, 2017
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

Teenage Girls is a pretty but less popular line climbing the prominent dyke on the blunt arete just left of Up Up and Away. It's a nice Bluffs bolted climb that is not a slab climb, and the crux is short and soft for the grade.

There is some definite ledge fall potential at the crux. Apparently there used to be a midway anchor to help mitigate this, but it was removed.

Three ways to start this climb:
1) Climb the first 20 feet of Fishy Business (10d, most direct). Bring a small cam, maybe like metolius 0 or 1, to protect against ground fall. Otherwise, this has one bolt with some spicy moves getting up to it.
2) Climb a two bolt slabby mantle further to the right.
3) Climb up the initial corner of Up Up and Away. This is the easiest way to get to the base, maybe 5.7, wouldn't recommend placing any gear in the corner though for rope drag reasons.

Once you're on the big ledge below the arete, the line and it's six bolts become obvious. The crux is moving past the second.

If you lower off the top with a 60, tie knots. It's a full 30m back to the ground.

Protection

Bolts. Possibly some gear depending on which start you use.

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