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> N America
> Canada
> British Columbia
> Squamish
> Smoke Bluffs
> Penny Lane
[Redacted]
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2.7 from 6
votes
Routes in Penny Lane
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[Redacted] S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Balding For Dollars S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Body Snatcher, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Clandestine Affair T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Climb & Punishment T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Crime of the Century T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Drain Evader T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Exsanguinator T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fat Lip S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Fishy Business S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Green Slime Line, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Grumpy Old Men S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hangover T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Health Hazard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Her Ladyship's Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Jangling Ball Wall T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Kahouker'ers T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Kahoukers T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Lucifer's Lips T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Partners In Crime T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Penny Lane T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Popeye and the Raven T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Power Windows T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Quarryman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Red Rocket T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Satan's slit T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Short People T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sunny Days in December T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Tougher Quarryman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ugly American (aka Ugly Anders) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Up, Up and Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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War Horse T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Weenie T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Werewolves of London T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Witch Doctor's Apprentice, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Yorkshire Gripper T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Dale Caldwell, 1988 |
| Page Views: | 1,512 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Matthew Tangeman on Aug 31, 2017 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Teenage Girls is a pretty but less popular line climbing the prominent dyke on the blunt arete just left of Up Up and Away. It's a nice Bluffs bolted climb that is not a slab climb, and the crux is short and soft for the grade.
There is some definite ledge fall potential at the crux. Apparently there used to be a midway anchor to help mitigate this, but it was removed.
Three ways to start this climb:
1) Climb the first 20 feet of Fishy Business (10d, most direct). Bring a small cam, maybe like metolius 0 or 1, to protect against ground fall. Otherwise, this has one bolt with some spicy moves getting up to it.
2) Climb a two bolt slabby mantle further to the right.
3) Climb up the initial corner of Up Up and Away. This is the easiest way to get to the base, maybe 5.7, wouldn't recommend placing any gear in the corner though for rope drag reasons.
Once you're on the big ledge below the arete, the line and it's six bolts become obvious. The crux is moving past the second.
If you lower off the top with a 60, tie knots. It's a full 30m back to the ground.
There is some definite ledge fall potential at the crux. Apparently there used to be a midway anchor to help mitigate this, but it was removed.
Three ways to start this climb:
1) Climb the first 20 feet of Fishy Business (10d, most direct). Bring a small cam, maybe like metolius 0 or 1, to protect against ground fall. Otherwise, this has one bolt with some spicy moves getting up to it.
2) Climb a two bolt slabby mantle further to the right.
3) Climb up the initial corner of Up Up and Away. This is the easiest way to get to the base, maybe 5.7, wouldn't recommend placing any gear in the corner though for rope drag reasons.
Once you're on the big ledge below the arete, the line and it's six bolts become obvious. The crux is moving past the second.
If you lower off the top with a 60, tie knots. It's a full 30m back to the ground.
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