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Dog Dreamin'
5.9+ PG13,
Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 3 pitches, Grade II,
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
FA: Nicole Meyer, Thomas Gilmore April 2017
Kentucky
> Red River Gorge
> Northern Gorge
> Dunkan Rock
Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r… Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
To find the route, look for an obvious dihedral above some broken ledges 10 feet left of the starting ramp for Treason at the Watchtower.
Pitch 1: Climb the broken ledges to the base of the dihedral.
Pitch 2: (The money pitch) Climb the dihedral (5.10-). Take this pitch to the second large ledge with a giant tan boulder on it. Pitch 1 and 2 could be combined. From the first large ledge you can bail left (passing a sick looking presumably unclimbed overhanging wide crack) and scramble down a gully back to your pack or take on the wild, adventurous 3rd pitch.
Pitch 3: 5.9+ climb up the large tan boulder and wonder to yourself how you are going to traverse along the horizontal crack feature in front of you. Commit to some of the most improbable moves at the grade that you will do on a multipitch in the Red to arrive at the arete feature, then pull up onto the right side of the slab; delicately climb the slab to the top taking advantage of whatever gear you can find (tricams may be useful but we didn't have any). Top out to one of the best views in the Red
Decent: 2 rappels off some trees climbers left back to your packs.
Location
10 feet left of "Treason at the Watchtower", GPS: N37.84067° W83.63817°
Protection
Standard RRG double rack. Tricams or offset cams may be helpful on the last pitch
[Hide Photo] Left crack system is Dog Dreamin' right crack system is Treason at the Watchtower