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Routes in Mount Victoria North Summit

Northeast Ridge T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Mod. Snow
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Type: Trad, Snow, Alpine, 4200 ft, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 123 total · 10/month
Shared By: Markuso on Aug 30, 2017
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

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Description

From the start of the glacier, work your way towards the bergschrund below the black band of rock below the Collier-N Summit Col. In mid August we crossed the bergschrund on climbers right, encountering a 2-3m step of vertical snow/ice, where we found a second tool helpful. Scramble up the black band of rock (3-4th class) to the col. From the col work your way along the ridge on rock or snow. The ridge gradually gets steeper, climbing loose 3rd-4th class rock, then finally a short 10m section of 5.3 climbing on solid rock protected by a single piton. From there scramble the rest of the way to the summit. Alternatively the rock can be bypassed on the right on 45 degree+ snow/ice.

Descent is to downclimb the route, with a few rappels set up if you need them (rock step, just below the rock step, and over the bergschrund).

Protection

1 fixed piton on the 5.3 rock step. Standard Mountaineering gear

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