All Locations > International > Europe > Italy > Arco and Surround… > Piccolo Dain (Mon… > Parete della Centrale
Avg: 3 from 2 votes
Routes in Parete della Centrale
|Moon Bears S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Type:||Sport, 820 ft, 9 pitches|
|FA:||E. Salvaterra, M. Ghezzi - 2011|
|Page Views:||58 total, 21/month|
|Shared By:||Alicia Sokolowski on Aug 29, 2017|
DescriptionStart on top of the power plant gate at the obvious bolt line. Three popular, moderate routes share these first two pitches, so be prepared to jockey for position with some other parties. Also, don't link these two pitches. It's a mess with bushes and rope drag and slows down the other parties waiting to get on a line.
If you need to pass, a confident, capable party probably doesn't need a rope for p2.
Up higher you can link pitches here and there. Lengths are estimates.
p1: jump on the fence to start - 70 ft. 5.6
p2: go left across the bushy ledges - 70 ft. 5.3
p3: work your way straight up into the open book - 90 ft. 5.6
p4: pretty straight up the open book to the beginning of a long dihedral - 100 ft. 5.7
p.5: first of two crux pitches. While it is safely bolted, the bolts seem to come way before and after the actual crux moves. A nut placement will buy you peace of mind if you feel sketchy pulling a 5.9 move with a bolt a foot or two below your feet. 110 ft. 5.9
p.6: This is the second of the two crux pitches. See comment above. This finishes out the long dihedral and lands you back at the base of a corner - 110 ft. 5.9
p.7: Finish out the corner and you are back at the base of another dihedral - 70 ft. 5.8
p.8: Nice dihedral climbing. I found this to be a very attractive pitch - 110 ft. 5.8
p.9: My partner really enjoyed surmounting this little wall - 90 ft. 5.7 (just at the beginning, eases off after the little wall at the start of the pitch)