Avg: 3 from 5 votes
|Type:||Sport, 820 ft, 9 pitches|
|FA:||E. Salvaterra, M. Ghezzi - 2011|
|Page Views:||900 total · 35/month|
|Shared By:||Alicia Sokolowski on Aug 29, 2017|
|Admins:||Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath|
If you need to pass, a confident, capable party probably doesn't need a rope for p2.
Up higher you can link pitches here and there. Lengths are estimates.
p1: jump on the fence to start - 70 ft. 5.6
p2: go left across the bushy ledges - 70 ft. 5.3
p3: work your way straight up into the open book - 90 ft. 5.6
p4: pretty straight up the open book to the beginning of a long dihedral - 100 ft. 5.7
p.5: first of two crux pitches. While it is safely bolted, the bolts seem to come way before and after the actual crux moves. A nut placement will buy you peace of mind if you feel sketchy pulling a 5.9 move with a bolt a foot or two below your feet. 110 ft. 5.9
p.6: This is the second of the two crux pitches. See comment above. This finishes out the long dihedral and lands you back at the base of a corner - 110 ft. 5.9
p.7: Finish out the corner and you are back at the base of another dihedral - 70 ft. 5.8
p.8: Nice dihedral climbing. I found this to be a very attractive pitch - 110 ft. 5.8
p.9: My partner really enjoyed surmounting this little wall - 90 ft. 5.7 (just at the beginning, eases off after the little wall at the start of the pitch)
Additional information from Kenr that is useful, so I moved it into the main body (Thank you, Kenr!):
See also ...
- topo Photo on SassBaloss.com
- topo Photo on PlanetMountain.com
- English-language report from 2015
Note that some guidebooks and websites call this wall "Parete del Limarò". This new "Moon Bears" route is next right from the older routes "Amazzonia" and "Orizzonti Dolomitici".
- One website says its mostly IV+ and V+, with 1 sequence of VI-.
Those UIAA grades are usually said to be equivalent to Euro sport grade 5a with a little 5b.
- An English-language blog report says lots of 5b with a little 5c.
- this French-language report says there is a 6a sequence and 5c+ sequence.
Many guidebooks and websites say Euro 5a is like USA 5.7 and Euro 5b is like USA 5.8 (and that fits my experience). But a few guidebooks and websites say 5b is like 5.9. Euro 6a is often said to be into 5.10 territory.
GPS latitude longitude given in the Description above (as of 2017) is for the gate or the parking, not the base of the climb - (which should be clear from the careful context provided in the Description).