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Routes in Whirlpool Rock

Aqua Man TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Aqualad V3 6A
Cohen's Crown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flexible Flyer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flexible Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake Dance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Whirlpool Arete V7 7A+
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Type: Trad
FA: M. Cohen, H. Carter
Page Views: 257 total · 18/month
Shared By: Nick Pinto on Aug 29, 2017
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route is an old school classic, featuring some of the steepest 5.9 gear climbing around. Due to the traversing nature of the bottom half of the route, careful placements and extension are required to keep rope drag reasonable. Or it can be broken into two short pitches.

Start on the left side of the cave and work left to a pin below the grey flake where the steepness begins. You can get an optional belay here for rope drag purposes. Continue up the steep, juggy climbing plugging cams and clipping a modern pin before the exciting finishing move.

Build a gear anchor at the top of the climb, walk off to a gully on the climber's right side of the formation.

Location

Begin on the left side of the cave.

Protection

A standard rack with many slings if doing this as a single pitch.

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