Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

16. Via Donne di Cuori

5.9-, Sport, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches,  Avg: 3.5 from 2 votes
FA: D. Falcone R. Marchi - 2009
International > Europe > Italy > Arco & Surround… > Regina del Lago > Seconda Fascia

Description

Note: This route is rated 5c by local ratings. (5a obl.)

p1: Hardest pitch, with hardest moves in the first few bolts. It eases up considerably after. Go up a right-angled corner/chimney. Don't get too far in the chimney. 5.9-

p2: There is a 6b+ variation if you go right at the start. Otherwise, follow the bolt line straight and a bit left for mellow 5.7 climbing.

p3: Short, weird pitch. Traverse through bushy pebbly ledges protected by bolts and a piece of webbing attached to a bolt hanger that creaked when I yarded on it. If it breaks, you'll take a swing. 5.8-

p4: Very easy climbing to the top. Bolts become spaced when it's really just a scramble. 5.4

Descent: There is an established path at the top with red and white blazes. Follow it climber's left back to the walking trail / mountain bike path you came in on. (about 20 minutes back to parking)

Location

50 feet from the established trail described in parent section. If you hit a talus field. you went too far, but just angle up and you will hit it. Name plate at the base.

Protection

Well bolted. Spaced on the last pitch, but it's very easy climbing at that point (more scramble than climb)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

This is the piece of webbing you can use as a hand hold (if you feel good about it).  Note, this is the perspective looking back on it after already passing it.
[Hide Photo] This is the piece of webbing you can use as a hand hold (if you feel good about it). Note, this is the perspective looking back on it after already passing it.
Following these blazes back down to the trail you came from.
[Hide Photo] Following these blazes back down to the trail you came from.
Bushy traverse
[Hide Photo] Bushy traverse
Second pitch from the belay
[Hide Photo] Second pitch from the belay
First pitch start
[Hide Photo] First pitch start
Name plate at start
[Hide Photo] Name plate at start
Navigating the bushiness
[Hide Photo] Navigating the bushiness