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North Face of Ambush Peak
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in Ambush Peak
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Ambush Plaisir T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Arsenault-Bouchard T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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East Chimney/South Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Gash Peak - Golden Dihedral T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Great Grey Book T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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I Think Therefore I Ambush T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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M Buttress T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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No Picnic for Old Men T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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North Face of Ambush Peak T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Raid Peak-South Buttress,East Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Runnel Out T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C1 R |
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Son Of Raid T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1800 ft (545 m), 12 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Matt Zia, Chris Dickson |
| Page Views: | 1,587 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Dickson on Aug 28, 2017 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
This route is essentially a significant variation to the Arsenault-Bouchard route, "Hole in the Wall". It shares the same start (a weakness in the lower slabs), but traverses a long 3rd class ledge system around to the right onto the north face. From there, it climbs 4 pitches of quality right-facing dihedrals to the base of a splitter crack. Our intention was to link this crack into another right-facing corner above, but when the crack turned into a slab, we cut back left on a ledge to climb the final pitch of the Arsenault-Bouchard to the summit.
We spotted this corner system from Gash Peak, after climbing Golden Dihedrals. We could not believe that it climbed as good as it did. Also, there is a ton of potential for new variations on the North Face of Ambush off of this large grassy ledge system. If you don't mind some grassy scrambling halfway through your day, then this climb is totally worth checking out. Each pitch has the potential to be classic and its slightly more sustained than the pitches it skips on the Arsenault-Bouchard. Go do it!
We spotted this corner system from Gash Peak, after climbing Golden Dihedrals. We could not believe that it climbed as good as it did. Also, there is a ton of potential for new variations on the North Face of Ambush off of this large grassy ledge system. If you don't mind some grassy scrambling halfway through your day, then this climb is totally worth checking out. Each pitch has the potential to be classic and its slightly more sustained than the pitches it skips on the Arsenault-Bouchard. Go do it!
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