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Routes in Misc - needs to be organized!

Ambush Plaisir T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arsenault-Bouchard T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Chimney/South Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gash Peak - Golden Dihedral T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Great Grey Book T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Think Therefore I Ambush T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
M Buttress T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Picnic for Old Men T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
North Face of Ambush Peak T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Raid Peak-South Buttress,East Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Runnel Out T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C1 R
Son Of Raid T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 1800 ft, 12 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Matt Zia, Chris Dickson
Page Views: 153 total · 17/month
Shared By: Chris Dickson on Aug 28, 2017
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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Description [Edit]

This route is essentially a significant variation to the Arsenault-Bouchard route, "Hole in the Wall". It shares the same start (a weakness in the lower slabs), but traverses a long 3rd class ledge system around to the right onto the north face. From there, it climbs 4 pitches of quality right-facing dihedrals to the base of a splitter crack. Our intention was to link this crack into another right-facing corner above, but when the crack turned into a slab, we cut back left on a ledge to climb the final pitch of the Arsenault-Bouchard to the summit.

We spotted this corner system from Gash Peak, after climbing Golden Dihedrals. We could not believe that it climbed as good as it did. Also, there is a ton of potential for new variations on the North Face of Ambush off of this large grassy ledge system. If you don't mind some grassy scrambling halfway through your day, then this climb is totally worth checking out. Each pitch has the potential to be classic and its slightly more sustained than the pitches it skips on the Arsenault-Bouchard. Go do it!

Location [Edit]

This route starts on the NE toe of Ambush. Scramble up to a grassy alcove below a R-facing corner and tie in there.

Protection [Edit]

Standard alpine rack from C3's to a #3 Camalot. Extra finger size pieces are nice to have.

Photos

Jared Spaulding
Central WY
Jared Spaulding   Central WY
Nice work on a new variation. Way to keep it traditional with the name too! Sep 14, 2017

More About North Face of Ambush Peak

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