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Routes in Hailes Cave

Aranea S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lucifugus S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Robot Toe (routesetter plz update) S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Time, Heat, And Pressure S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Totally Chossom S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Lower: Pat Thompson & Mike Whelan , Upper: Dwight Cheu 2016
Page Views: 1,140 total · 88/month
Shared By: Rob King on Aug 28, 2017 with updates from MikeH
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Description

Climb some dirty rock to the first bolt and then through some interesting face climbing to the small roof crux (if you can make the high clip, rest and back clean the last clip). After the roof, climb to and clip the first anchor before continuing up into the huge crack. Follow the crack up to and under the roof, passing the second set of anchors. Climb around the corner and back into the vertical crack before manteling onto a dirty ledge and clipping the third set of anchors. FIGHT THAT ROPE DRAG!

This route is very difficult to clean on the way down if you do the full extension so it's best to have someone follow on TR to do so.

Location

Second route in from the dirty back corner

Protection

12 bolts to the anchor

Photos

aparnas
 
aparnas  
 
One of the best laybacks I've ever experienced. Nothing too technical, just waaay fun! Sep 5, 2017
MikeH
 
MikeH  
 
2018: The cave wall is closed until May 1st for a bat closure. Apr 21, 2018
petzl logic
Montreal, QC
  5.10-
petzl logic   Montreal, QC
  5.10-
Great climb, nothing particularly hard but you sure get off the ground in a hurry! Sep 4, 2018

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