Type: Snow, Alpine, 1000 ft, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 473 total · 20/month
Shared By: Gavin W on Aug 27, 2017
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

A great introduction to glacier travel in the North Cascades. Enjoy a bit of exposure as you work your way up the snow-covered glacier on the north face of Ruth, with a (usually) minimal amount of crevasses to avoid. Once you gain the summit ridge, enjoy increasingly-epic views of Shuksan, Baker, and the Picket Range as you make the last push to the summit.

The climb is most often done in a day from the trailhead, but can also be completed in a leisurely two (or even three!) days. If you choose to camp, the Hannegan Camps (just below Hannegan Pass) are a great location that offers plenty of tent sites and a toilet. Camping is also permitted along the saddle between Ruth and Point 5930. If you choose to use the bivy sites on the summit of Ruth, be aware that this is inside the North Cascades National Park and as such requires a permit (which can be acquired at the Glacier Public Service Center).

Location

Head east on Highway 542, leaving the highway at Hannegan Pass Road and following signage to the Hannegan Pass trailhead (where a NW Forest Pass is required, available at the Glacier Public Service Center).
Hike the 4 miles to Hannegan Pass, and from there follow the climbers trail south towards Point 5930. Beware, during late season this trail follows a very eroded creek bed (coming back down this trail is probably the technical crux of the whole day). Follow the trail left around Point 5930, and across the saddle to the base of the climb.

Protection

Crampons, Ice axe, pickets

Photos